Yes the tent hangar works OK it is semi-permanent because i dont own the place its at and with no building permits reqd. and 1/2 a day to shift it was the best option. (the owner lives there, otherwise I would have done a Baracuda shed of steel, because polyester tarp is not secure)
The only thing that has been a worry is the straight roof portals, because water can pool and slump the tarp down, unless relieved by drains which I put just inside the perimeter of the canopy.
It would be worth considering curved portals, howver this cant be done with the aluminium tubes I used, and i didnt want to do it in steel.
cost NZ$3,000 all up includung the floor (more tarp). Its had some severe weather and seems OK. I tie the plane up inside just to be sure it cant get blown into the portals if the cover goes.
Yes, I'm putting my 701 on OLDER types Amphib floats With the SKYJEEP gear on.
- I'll be using the nosegear extension and be keeping the Tundra tire up front.
- I'll be using the small wheels in the floats and the drum brakes included with the wheels
- I'll keep the axle and disk brakes + pads on the axles with the SkyJeep and use that as an attachment to the float (easier to switch from tundra wheels to floats)
-I'll use spreader bars between floats in the front and back so it's more solid.
-I'll get rid of the front 4130 attchment and use real alu struts instead.
-I'll use electric actuators for the retract mecanism instead of air operated ones
I started already the work of mounting the amphib floats on my 701. I'll keep posting data on the discussion board and pictures on my page.
Make sure the step reinforcement plates (both sides) are there otherwise the floats may buckle at the step ! My floats were made by someone else and he forgot the plates and the buckled under snow ! I added 40mm plates from the bulkhead behind the step to the bulkhead in front of the step 6 inches tall. Bingo !
Other point, check the retraction mecanism for binding and RUST ! These parts HAVE TO BE greased or made of Stainless Steel to resist the rust.
Ralph Sanson
The only thing that has been a worry is the straight roof portals, because water can pool and slump the tarp down, unless relieved by drains which I put just inside the perimeter of the canopy.
It would be worth considering curved portals, howver this cant be done with the aluminium tubes I used, and i didnt want to do it in steel.
cost NZ$3,000 all up includung the floor (more tarp). Its had some severe weather and seems OK. I tie the plane up inside just to be sure it cant get blown into the portals if the cover goes.
Ralph
Jul 2, 2009
Normand Lambert
Yes, I'm putting my 701 on OLDER types Amphib floats With the SKYJEEP gear on.
- I'll be using the nosegear extension and be keeping the Tundra tire up front.
- I'll be using the small wheels in the floats and the drum brakes included with the wheels
- I'll keep the axle and disk brakes + pads on the axles with the SkyJeep and use that as an attachment to the float (easier to switch from tundra wheels to floats)
-I'll use spreader bars between floats in the front and back so it's more solid.
-I'll get rid of the front 4130 attchment and use real alu struts instead.
-I'll use electric actuators for the retract mecanism instead of air operated ones
I started already the work of mounting the amphib floats on my 701. I'll keep posting data on the discussion board and pictures on my page.
Cheers.
Norm
Sep 22, 2009
Normand Lambert
Make sure the step reinforcement plates (both sides) are there otherwise the floats may buckle at the step ! My floats were made by someone else and he forgot the plates and the buckled under snow ! I added 40mm plates from the bulkhead behind the step to the bulkhead in front of the step 6 inches tall. Bingo !
Other point, check the retraction mecanism for binding and RUST ! These parts HAVE TO BE greased or made of Stainless Steel to resist the rust.
Chears.
Norm
Sep 22, 2009