Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Bob McDonald on September 15, 2011 at 6:38am

This is how the seats in my CH750 were made. It may seem over-kill to use 3 layers of memory type high density foam, but it really pays to have a good quality seat when your flying long distance. Some builders comment they only fly a couple hours then need to get out and walk around. I flew my CH750 4 hrs, stopped to re-fuel and then flew another 3 hrs in a single day. Don't go leather material, its hot in the summer and a cold brick in the winter. You want material that breathes and is long wearing. My 2 cents. 

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Permalink Reply by John Austin on September 15, 2011 at 6:48am

Bob- What about the seat back support? Is some sort of aluminum or plywood sheet behind the foam?

Thanks,

John

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Permalink Reply by Bob McDonald on September 15, 2011 at 8:25pm

I riveted a sheet .032 6061 to the back seat frame.

 

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Permalink Reply by Geoffrey Alexander on September 15, 2011 at 7:59am

In my 640 the seats are supported by sheet aluminum that is riveted to a frame. When I was ready for upholstery I went to a local salvage yard and found some seats in a small sports car that were really comfortable. I purchased both front seats for only $25.00. I took the seats apart at home and found the seat back and bottom were blow molded foam rubber with the bolsters already shaped. I then used the origional covers as pattern for the new covers and fitted all this to the seat pans that were supplied with the kit. I have flown the airplane over 7 hours in one day with no fatigue and every one who sit in the airplane comments on how comfortable the seats are.

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Permalink Reply by John Austin on September 15, 2011 at 8:13am

What make/model car did the seats come from?

Thanks,

John

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Permalink Reply by Jim Derickson on September 16, 2011 at 7:26am

Hi John, On my seat backs I added a bar just up from the swivel point ( where it bolts to the pan ) and the support was done with webbing. It is very comfortable and seems to be wearing well. I also narrowed the seat frames one inch so it doesn't hit the door post when upolstered.My seat is as far back as I could go with it.I also changed the seat stops and made them ground adjustable, pictures on my builders page, Jim

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Permalink Reply by Dan Dempsey on September 16, 2011 at 5:24pm

To make a seat back I first tried a method I read about on the EAA web site about using 2 layers of foam core epoxied together and covered with fiberglass.  This did not work.  The first time I sat in my plane with these the seat back broke right in the middle.  THen I used a 1/8" piece of Luan plywood.  This worked great, and is very light weight.  I also purchased the confor foam from Hi-Tech Foams.  Here's a link to my web page.

http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us/zodiac/interior/index.html

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Permalink Reply by Ron Lendon on September 16, 2011 at 9:17pm

John,

I think I also used 1/8 Luan plywood. Purchased the foam from Hi-Tech and had a friend who knows how to upholster volunteer to cover the seats. Clamping the foam so the glue can dry can be tricky but we finally figured that one out.

Here is a link to the kit log site

http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=...

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Permalink Reply by John Austin on September 17, 2011 at 7:47am

Thanks for all the info! I'm not sure if the plywood is applicable in the 750 as it is a tubular steel frame seatback - I don't know anything about the Zodiacs, but looks like an entirely different seat structure. Perhaps riveted aluminum would be the way to go for the 750 - an upholsterer might want to web it instead - I've yet to talk to him.

By the way, Ron, looked at your pics and now I see what lugging that kitty litter home is really good for! LOL!

I went junkyard cruising yesterday, hoping to find a pair of small seats that could be donor foam for my seats, but quickly found that no matter what the size of the car, most seats are at a minimum 20+" wide (to fit big American butts I guess!). Looks like in the 750 you have about 17+" width between tunnel and door at the extreme forward end of the seat. However, I didn't find any really tight little sports cars like a Miata or one of the BMW Z's - they might be smaller. I guess you could carve down the donor foam, but probably the most practical is to just build one up with the Comfor Foam as everyone else seems to be doing! At least you're starting with brand new foam and don't have to worry about premature break-down of the foam - I suspect a lot of the junkers' seats have rotten foam internally. Most car seats also have steel springs in the bottom - once those come out, you'd have to put back at least one sheet of Comfor Foam for adequate thickness and comfort.

Regards,

John

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Permalink Reply by Jake Reyna on September 18, 2011 at 8:39am

John, I bought foam from Rochford Supply. Started with their Sample Foam Package and then ordered 4 sheets of foam, 2'x6' in 1" and 2" thickness. It's enough foam for 2 sets of seats. I made the bottoms using different 2" foam, my wife likes a firmer seat, both are covered by 1" foam. The backs are 2" foam. I made some seat covers using denim fabric, nothing fancy, but comfortable.

I do have an Oregon Aero seat cushion (memory foam) and use that to raise my butt, need to add a wedge in the seat pan for a permanent solution. On a recent cross country I flew without the memory foam and the seats were comfortable. If you want to add a layer of memory foam, head to Walmart and buy a memory foam topper for a twin bed, it's at a good price.

http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Foam/index.html

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Permalink Reply by Jim B Belcher on September 18, 2011 at 10:10am

Which of their foams did you buy? Since what you did worked, it might be worth just duplicating it, rather than playing around. I don't know a lot about foam, so my chance of stumbling on to something that works on my own are rather small.

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