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Permalink Reply by Jon Reddick on March 30, 2015 at 8:02am

I just drilled my torque tube this past week. Probably the most miserable part of the build this far. I attached the flaps and duct taped them tightly up to the stops, then, with the motor in the full up position, I had a helper put some upward tension on the rod and drilled them in place. That was the hard part. I'm a pretty big guy and my arms barely fit back there much less my head which meant that I had to fold myself in half and then use a mirror to see what was going on behind the rear spar carrythrough. Took like six hours and my body hurt for four days, but they're even and tight to the stops. To answer your question, however, there is some wiggle to them. If you push down, the gap will open up some. What size hole did you use in the nylon piece that the rod inserts into?

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Permalink Reply by Jon Reddick on March 30, 2015 at 8:08am

By the way, how much downward deflection are you getting? I ask because I zero'd a digital level on top of the flaps and only got like 18.5 degrees in the full down position. I can't see a way to get more without swapping out the motor for one with a longer throw.

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Permalink Reply by David Gallagher on April 1, 2015 at 6:04am

Rich,

I can wiggle the flaps just a little when they are down, but I am OK with it.  I re-did my nylon plates on the flap sides a few times until I was happy with the fit between the pin and slots.  In flight they should be held tightly against the stop in the up position and aero loads will hold them up whenever they are lowered. I have never felt any fluttering in flight in any position.

Jon, I have 22.7 degrees of flap deflection at max.  It is plenty for me when I occasionally use flaps except on short grass strips.

Good luck,

Dave

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Permalink Reply by Richard Simmons on April 1, 2015 at 7:37am

Thanks for your response guys.

As far as the nylon on the flap, I am nice and snug there. My issue is the opening up of the first hole while drilling through to the second.
It's rather amusing that the most difficult(left/short tube) hole came out really nice.

My fixe for the the first round of not enough closing distan was rotating the tubes to a correct position and then re-drilling to an an4 bolt hole. The rotation/play is so small yet it equates to a lot due to its odd geometry.

So now with the flap being held in a position removing the play in a direction to my advantage I will install a SS 3/16 rivet appropriately to hold the tubes in an acceptable alignment.

The I can call them done!

If I do have to do these over, I will drill the first hole, remove the tubes and finish them on a drill press.

I'll report my flap movement after I get them finished and fully rivited to the wing.

Thanks again!

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Permalink Reply by Tim Juhl on April 2, 2015 at 10:11am

Haven't installed my wings yet but my plan is thus:  Drill #30 pilot holes in the tube with the activating arm in  easily accessible locations.  Position the flaps in the full-up position and drill one hole into each torque tube, installing a rivet to hold the tubes in position while the bolt holes are drilled starting thru another pilot hole.  Hopefully this will prevent any creep.

On a related matter, I've flown a lot of Cessna's and all have wiggle in the flaps. IMO airflow will hold the Zodiac's flaps firmly against the stops.

Tim

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