Hi, Jon; Wayne Bartlett here, I'm a big fan of your videos. I'm retired AF, teaching high school English here in Alabama as a second career.
I want a 701, and I'll build one pretty soon, but I'm wondering if I could ask you something about it performance wise?
How comfortable would you be approaching and landing on a typical rural high school football field? I guess there's no such thing as typical football field, but I mean a field that doesn't have a large stadium built around it but maybe just has some bleachers.
I've got an idea about something I could do if I had a 701.
In an effort to sell the idea of me getting a 701 to my wife, I've been *forcing* her to watch your homebuilt help videos. She likes your Wisconsin accent, it reminds her of home (she's from Milwaukee) and reminds me of her brother, who talks more like you than you do.
My thought is that part of why she's not all that keen on the idea is that she's afraid I won't be able to put it together and end up with a reasonably safe airplane to fly. I'm not really all that mechanical, admittedly.
She's ready to let me spend $40K on a reasonably good 152 or an ancient 172, but who wants an creaky old Pontiac when you could have a juicy little hotrod instead? For $40K, I could get the 701, a nice new rotax to put in it, some reasonable instruments, and a new sleeping bag for camping!
Seeing the videos helps her see that even I can do it. I think I've got her just about sold.
Well, I've taken several in-person looks at both the 701 and 801 over the last couple of years, at Oshkosh, Sun and Fun, and also locally here, a couple of guys around have them.
When details on the 750 were first released, I thought about it and came to the conclusion that the 701 was still for me. All I really plan to do with airplane is fly around locally with the dog, go camping from time to time (wife's not interested in camping), and take kids on afternoon rides. I had the idea that the 750 would probably be more complicated to build, and that going with the less complicated 701 might be better for non-mechanical me.
But--if the 750 really is that much easier to put together...hmm. Is the 750 really significantly bigger on the inside than the 701? There's great photos of the exterior on the Zenith website, but not that many interior photos. I have to admit that the 701 is a little cramped for me + camping gear + dog.
The dog's pretty small, granted (check my zenith.aero page for a photo) but we'll need a tent, sleeping bag, bits and pieces, and whatnot.
Hmm...it sure is something to think about.
I gather that you're making a set of videos for the 750 just as you have for the 701? No pressure but...I'd sure like to get your 750 videos before I decide.
Jon,
I really enjoyed your 701 homebuilt help videos. I just received my horizontal and rudder kit. Although the build seems pretty straight forward, I am uncertain about what not to rivet and the sequence. What is your estimate to release some 750 videos?
Thanks Ron
I have been admiring the matched-hole construction on your 750. I have just ordered the wing kit for my 650 project and I was wondering if the 650 wings will have the same matched-hole assembly as the 750, or will just the skins be pre punched?
Thank you for HomebuiltHELP. I would not have considered this project without it.
Hi Jon. I was wondering if the new 912 installation video is different from the one shot in California during their workshop. The one showing on your page now shows alot of electrical wiring that wasnt on mine. Am I dreaming or is this the case?
Just finished watching all the 750 build videos. Nice job! They will be very helpful in selecting the proper sequence of steps. I had just finished the Horizontal Stabilizer when I received the dvd's. It was fairly easy, but I saw a few things in your video that would have made things go quicker and smoother if I had watched it first.
Hi Jon, it was nice seeing you in Mexico, MO. I have finished watching 2 of the videos and they are great....very nicely done. Now I am glad I brought my wallet to Open Hanger Day.
Hi, Jon; Wayne Bartlett here. I went to the rudder workshop last weekend and brought home a tail kit.
I'm working on it now--I've got the photo assembly guide and the plans, but I don't think I would be able to do it without your videos, so thank you for those. I have the horizontal tail video, the wing video, and the forward fuselage video, and I'll be getting all the others for the 701 pretty soon.
I do have a question about the two horizontal stab front mounts brackets (the ones that get the 35 mm/10 mm trim job) and how to get them located correctly on the forward stab.
I want to be able to use the existing rivet holes that hold the upper and lower doublers in place, and it seems to me that this can be done. There's a hole 120 mm from the centerline on each side as part of the pitch 40 mm series of holes that extend from the centerline on the upper and lower doubler. If the flange of the mount is wide enough to allow a rivet 6 mm from the corner--and it seems to be--then that would put the space between the mounts right at 252 mm.
Do people normally just use these holes? Of course, three more holes (for a total of five) will have to be put there in the spar web, but it just seems to much neater and more elegant to use the top and bottom doubler holes if this can be done while maintaining the 252 mm separation between the two mounts.
I thought you might be able to answer this off the top of your head.
I watched your video again, and now I see where I'm going wrong. I wanted to put the brackets so that the flanges point inboard on the spar, and that's not the right way.
I puzzled over the plans and Zenith photos for a while, but your video cleared it up for me in 10 seconds. I see now that I can't use the existing holes, but that's okay.
When I was at the factory last year I mentioned to Sebastian that all that extra space behind the seats was less useful with only a 40 pound capacity. He responded that as long as the CG was correct, the 40 lb limit was more a limitation of the floor structure rather than the aircraft itself. As such, I've been tossing around ideas in my mind on how to strengthen the floor without adding too much weight. Since you're now much more familiar with that structure, could you provide any input on that?
I'm also trying to figure out where I could install a roll servo. Doesn't look likw much space for that.
Hi, Jon; Wayne Bartlett here with another question.
I hate to bother you, but I've got a bit of a puzzle involving the horizontal stab skin.
I've watched your video for the horizontal stab, and you don't seem to have the problem I'm having. I've attached three powerpoint slides that shows the problem.
What's happening is that I'm laying out the positions of the spars and ribs on the bottom of the skin before starting to drill the holes in the skin. I've drawn a line at 24 mm from the rear edge for the rear rib rivet lines, then started pitching rivet locations at 40 mm for the other components, including the rear ribs, starting from this 24 mm line and going forward.
It's the rear ribs rivet line that's giving me the trouble. When I start the forward/aft rivet line on the bottom skin for the rear ribs from the place on the 24 mm line where it intersects with the rear rib flange centerline (which I've drawn), I end up with the most forward rivet about 10 mm too far forward. It is actually at the forward edge of the forward spar instead of right in the middle of the flange.
I've measured and measured, everything looks right, but for some reason, it's just 10 mm too far forward.
On the skeleton, I'm measuring 210 mm of open space between the forward edge of the rear spar and the aft edge of the forward spar. This distance is defined by the forward/aft size of the rear spar, I don't see how that can be off.
My solution is just to move that forwardmost hole 10 mm back so that is placed at the intersection of the centerlines of the rear rib and forward rib--that way the rivet will catch both of those structures--but I'd like to know where I'm going wrong.
I bet you can tell with a single look--it's probably something stupid I'm doing.
Hi, Jon; Wayne here. Thanks for the quick response.
Uh-oh. You mean that the flange of the rear ribs don't go under the flange of the forward spar?
They have to, don't they? If the flange of the rear ribs don't go under the flange of the forward spar, then I don't see how the forward spar web can be riveted to the rear rib's forward flange.
Hmm...let me take a look at the skeleton...
Ah-ha! I bet you're thinking of the full ribs, the ones that are butted up against the ends of the doublers. Those ribs, one on each side, do not go under the flange of the forward rib, but instead butt up against it and are connected to the forward spar by means of the bracket coming off the ends of the forward spar.
What I'm talking about is the inboard-most ribs, the ones that are only 160 mm away from the spar centerline. Those are the ones where the forwardmost hole's not lining up.
Ah-ha! That makes perfect sense. That's just what I'll do--use the fan to space between the rear-most hole, there at the rear-rib-to-rear-spar intersection and the forward-most hole at the rear-rib-to-forward-spar intersection.
Jon:
Got the two new DVD's today that you sent because the first ones would not play on my MAC. The new ones would not work either.
Took my MAC to the Apple Genius bar and he said to goggle >VLC MAC<. He downloaded the VLC player for me and that does work all be it with some problems. But it does work.
Jon, I did not get a chance to visit with you at the open house on Saturday. I have a question/ concern/ problem with the 701 nose gear lower bearings (7F8-4 and 5) and the stops (-6). Zenith is now supplying the rear bearing pre-drilled with pilot holes intended to set the location for the bolt holes into the stops. Their photo assembly guide, drawings and also chapt. 4 of your video series all instruct or indicate that the stops are to be drilled for hole locations and then back drilled into the rear bearing. When I followed this with exact dimensions, my holes drilled into the bearing missed the factory holes by 4mm laterally and longitudinally. Also, Zenith is now supplying the front bearing 10mm shorter longitudinally. This caused my holes through the gear stops to come out 6mm from the back edge instead of the required 10mm miniumum. I have talked both with Caleb and Roger and cannot get a sense that there is any procedure in place at the factory to inform builders of these types of changes. They have been good to replace both parts with no pilot holes and at the original dimension at no charge, however. I just wanted you know in case you have a way to change your videos in the future.
Don Herbel
builder 7-5921
Claremore Okla
Just wanted you to know the good news... I finished the forty hours today and I'm looking forward to fly-ins, airshows, and pancake breakfasts around the state. I also hope to visit some builders who are in neighboring states within reach. Rest assured, vigilance and continued tweaking are still on the agenda.
Yes life is good down here. As I posted to the site, my wife Marita graced me with her company yesterday for a brief flight... sort of an orientation flight for her. We look forward to short one day or overnight trips as the schedule and weather permit. Good luck with your test flights and hopefully there will be unexpected breaks in the weather for you.
Hi Jon!
It was sure nice to meet you in person at Can-Zac last week. Your video was very helpful in building my rudder in a little under 9 hours!!
I watched the video very carefully then cross checked the dimensions with the plans and started building.. it was really helpful.
Continue your great work!
Andre
Yes I will keep you posted, we got rid of the dual alternator thanks to Robert Helms, we are still seeking advice and help on wiring, the MGL system is close and we are very close to engine start, paint and phase1. Thanks, Art
Jon, Thanks for the video on the 0-200 int. , it has been a great help for me. I need your help on locating heater control flange that goes through the firewall. Zenair showes one on their 0-200 firewall forward kit, but want sell individual parts. Thanks for your help. Max
Hi Jon videos arrived yesterday think the 0-200 runout is what I will go for anything below 8000 is a bargain because thats what continental charge for a crank case, saw a freshly overhauled example in UK GA classifieds for £8000, and crankcase on ebay for $2000,plus I have the manuals rummaging around on the net,what cruise speed do you get with your 0-200 cruzer , I picked the standard ch750 STOL because I thought with the 100hp engine I can get - afford there would not be much difference in cruise,Jan over at viking alludes to this on his site.Go hi tech with viking or rotax and get thru 15 litres an hour get an 0-200 and go thru 20 litres an hr, It probably is the best choice for me, brewing my own auto conversion magnifies all the problems, bespoke FWF parts, the mount aligning it, the carb, the ECU, the redrive/PSRU in the too hard basket, however should I win the lottery I will go with this :) http://flyrotax.com/produkte/detail/rotax-915-is-isc.html
Tim Garrett
any chance you could share the story you did of me and my dad? I'm the guy you met at the spring Zenith fly-in with MS.
Thanks!
Tim Garrett
Dec 25, 2008
Tim Garrett
Here is a new story on my plane, MS and me:
http://www.generalaviationnews.com/2008/12/news/overcoming-ms-and-fulfilling-dreams/#more-4351
I really like how this came out.
Tim Garrett
Jan 3, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
I want a 701, and I'll build one pretty soon, but I'm wondering if I could ask you something about it performance wise?
How comfortable would you be approaching and landing on a typical rural high school football field? I guess there's no such thing as typical football field, but I mean a field that doesn't have a large stadium built around it but maybe just has some bleachers.
I've got an idea about something I could do if I had a 701.
Thanks!...Wayne
Jan 28, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
In an effort to sell the idea of me getting a 701 to my wife, I've been *forcing* her to watch your homebuilt help videos. She likes your Wisconsin accent, it reminds her of home (she's from Milwaukee) and reminds me of her brother, who talks more like you than you do.
My thought is that part of why she's not all that keen on the idea is that she's afraid I won't be able to put it together and end up with a reasonably safe airplane to fly. I'm not really all that mechanical, admittedly.
She's ready to let me spend $40K on a reasonably good 152 or an ancient 172, but who wants an creaky old Pontiac when you could have a juicy little hotrod instead? For $40K, I could get the 701, a nice new rotax to put in it, some reasonable instruments, and a new sleeping bag for camping!
Seeing the videos helps her see that even I can do it. I think I've got her just about sold.
Thanks!...Wayne
Jan 29, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
Well, I've taken several in-person looks at both the 701 and 801 over the last couple of years, at Oshkosh, Sun and Fun, and also locally here, a couple of guys around have them.
When details on the 750 were first released, I thought about it and came to the conclusion that the 701 was still for me. All I really plan to do with airplane is fly around locally with the dog, go camping from time to time (wife's not interested in camping), and take kids on afternoon rides. I had the idea that the 750 would probably be more complicated to build, and that going with the less complicated 701 might be better for non-mechanical me.
But--if the 750 really is that much easier to put together...hmm. Is the 750 really significantly bigger on the inside than the 701? There's great photos of the exterior on the Zenith website, but not that many interior photos. I have to admit that the 701 is a little cramped for me + camping gear + dog.
The dog's pretty small, granted (check my zenith.aero page for a photo) but we'll need a tent, sleeping bag, bits and pieces, and whatnot.
Hmm...it sure is something to think about.
I gather that you're making a set of videos for the 750 just as you have for the 701? No pressure but...I'd sure like to get your 750 videos before I decide.
Hmm....
Thanks!...Wayne
Jan 29, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
Jan 31, 2009
Juan Vega
it was good seeing you at Sebring. Back to the great white north!
Juan
Feb 1, 2009
Tracy Buttles
have fun
Tracy
Feb 2, 2009
rontheman13
I really enjoyed your 701 homebuilt help videos. I just received my horizontal and rudder kit. Although the build seems pretty straight forward, I am uncertain about what not to rivet and the sequence. What is your estimate to release some 750 videos?
Thanks Ron
Feb 8, 2009
Richard Benson
I have been admiring the matched-hole construction on your 750. I have just ordered the wing kit for my 650 project and I was wondering if the 650 wings will have the same matched-hole assembly as the 750, or will just the skins be pre punched?
Thank you for HomebuiltHELP. I would not have considered this project without it.
Rich
Feb 13, 2009
Wayne Lyons
wayne lyons
Mar 26, 2009
Pedro Rivera
I see that you are busy ! , did you received the cuatro music cd ? . I am going to check here from time to time .
Pedro
Apr 6, 2009
rontheman13
I was just wondering if you have an update on the release of any of the 750 videos.
Apr 15, 2009
Thomas Richardson
Jun 2, 2009
Thomas Richardson
Jun 2, 2009
Donnie Moore
Just finished watching all the 750 build videos. Nice job! They will be very helpful in selecting the proper sequence of steps. I had just finished the Horizontal Stabilizer when I received the dvd's. It was fairly easy, but I saw a few things in your video that would have made things go quicker and smoother if I had watched it first.
Will there be a final assembly video?
Again nice job on the videos.
Thanks,
Donnie Moore
Jun 28, 2009
Tom Anderson
Tom Anderson
Jun 29, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
I'm working on it now--I've got the photo assembly guide and the plans, but I don't think I would be able to do it without your videos, so thank you for those. I have the horizontal tail video, the wing video, and the forward fuselage video, and I'll be getting all the others for the 701 pretty soon.
I do have a question about the two horizontal stab front mounts brackets (the ones that get the 35 mm/10 mm trim job) and how to get them located correctly on the forward stab.
I want to be able to use the existing rivet holes that hold the upper and lower doublers in place, and it seems to me that this can be done. There's a hole 120 mm from the centerline on each side as part of the pitch 40 mm series of holes that extend from the centerline on the upper and lower doubler. If the flange of the mount is wide enough to allow a rivet 6 mm from the corner--and it seems to be--then that would put the space between the mounts right at 252 mm.
Do people normally just use these holes? Of course, three more holes (for a total of five) will have to be put there in the spar web, but it just seems to much neater and more elegant to use the top and bottom doubler holes if this can be done while maintaining the 252 mm separation between the two mounts.
I thought you might be able to answer this off the top of your head.
Thanks!...Wayne
Jul 5, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
I watched your video again, and now I see where I'm going wrong. I wanted to put the brackets so that the flanges point inboard on the spar, and that's not the right way.
I puzzled over the plans and Zenith photos for a while, but your video cleared it up for me in 10 seconds. I see now that I can't use the existing holes, but that's okay.
Thanks!...Wayne
Jul 5, 2009
Bob Simmons
When I was at the factory last year I mentioned to Sebastian that all that extra space behind the seats was less useful with only a 40 pound capacity. He responded that as long as the CG was correct, the 40 lb limit was more a limitation of the floor structure rather than the aircraft itself. As such, I've been tossing around ideas in my mind on how to strengthen the floor without adding too much weight. Since you're now much more familiar with that structure, could you provide any input on that?
I'm also trying to figure out where I could install a roll servo. Doesn't look likw much space for that.
Jul 9, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
Hi, Jon; Wayne Bartlett here with another question.
I hate to bother you, but I've got a bit of a puzzle involving the horizontal stab skin.
I've watched your video for the horizontal stab, and you don't seem to have the problem I'm having. I've attached three powerpoint slides that shows the problem.
What's happening is that I'm laying out the positions of the spars and ribs on the bottom of the skin before starting to drill the holes in the skin. I've drawn a line at 24 mm from the rear edge for the rear rib rivet lines, then started pitching rivet locations at 40 mm for the other components, including the rear ribs, starting from this 24 mm line and going forward.
It's the rear ribs rivet line that's giving me the trouble. When I start the forward/aft rivet line on the bottom skin for the rear ribs from the place on the 24 mm line where it intersects with the rear rib flange centerline (which I've drawn), I end up with the most forward rivet about 10 mm too far forward. It is actually at the forward edge of the forward spar instead of right in the middle of the flange.
I've measured and measured, everything looks right, but for some reason, it's just 10 mm too far forward.
On the skeleton, I'm measuring 210 mm of open space between the forward edge of the rear spar and the aft edge of the forward spar. This distance is defined by the forward/aft size of the rear spar, I don't see how that can be off.
My solution is just to move that forwardmost hole 10 mm back so that is placed at the intersection of the centerlines of the rear rib and forward rib--that way the rivet will catch both of those structures--but I'd like to know where I'm going wrong.
I bet you can tell with a single look--it's probably something stupid I'm doing.
Thanks!...Wayne
Jul 11, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
Uh-oh. You mean that the flange of the rear ribs don't go under the flange of the forward spar?
They have to, don't they? If the flange of the rear ribs don't go under the flange of the forward spar, then I don't see how the forward spar web can be riveted to the rear rib's forward flange.
Hmm...let me take a look at the skeleton...
Ah-ha! I bet you're thinking of the full ribs, the ones that are butted up against the ends of the doublers. Those ribs, one on each side, do not go under the flange of the forward rib, but instead butt up against it and are connected to the forward spar by means of the bracket coming off the ends of the forward spar.
What I'm talking about is the inboard-most ribs, the ones that are only 160 mm away from the spar centerline. Those are the ones where the forwardmost hole's not lining up.
Thanks!...Wayne
Jul 11, 2009
Wayne Bartlett
Thanks!...Wayne
Jul 11, 2009
Stanley Challgren
Got the two new DVD's today that you sent because the first ones would not play on my MAC. The new ones would not work either.
Took my MAC to the Apple Genius bar and he said to goggle >VLC MAC<. He downloaded the VLC player for me and that does work all be it with some problems. But it does work.
Stan
Aug 11, 2009
rontheman13
Aug 28, 2009
rontheman13
Aug 28, 2009
Dr. Edward M. Moody II
Thanks,
Ed
Sep 6, 2009
Don Herbel
Don Herbel
builder 7-5921
Claremore Okla
Sep 23, 2009
Dr. Edward M. Moody II
Ed
Oct 18, 2009
Alberto Martin
Your videos are great and saved me from errors !
Oct 20, 2009
Dr. Edward M. Moody II
Ed
Oct 26, 2009
Dr. Edward M. Moody II
Ed
Oct 26, 2009
Tracy Buttles
Oct 26, 2009
Dr. Edward M. Moody II
How do I remove a photo. I can't seem to figure out how to do that and I want to take down the entire ZZ Top album at this time. Help?
Ed
Nov 12, 2009
Andre Levesque
It was sure nice to meet you in person at Can-Zac last week. Your video was very helpful in building my rudder in a little under 9 hours!!
I watched the video very carefully then cross checked the dimensions with the plans and started building.. it was really helpful.
Continue your great work!
Andre
Nov 18, 2009
Jake Reyna
Happy Holidays!
Jake
Dec 22, 2009
Sergio Fink
I feel honored to have been invited to be your friend. Sure I accept!
Regards,
Sergio
Mar 10, 2010
Joe Spencer
Dec 22, 2010
Karl Haagsma
May 18, 2011
Joseph F. Truncale
Hi Jon,
Thanks for the invite!
Best,
Joe
Jun 27, 2011
Ralph Gregus
did you make it to oshkosh 2011?
Was there early part of week didn't see you
Aug 12, 2011
Thomas Jackson
JON,
I miss your calendar. Do you still produce the calendar (2013)? If you do please send me some information as to how to order one.
Thanks, Tom
Jan 8, 2013
Arthur Batti
Hi Jon,
Yes I will keep you posted, we got rid of the dual alternator thanks to Robert Helms, we are still seeking advice and help on wiring, the MGL system is close and we are very close to engine start, paint and phase1. Thanks, Art
May 31, 2015
Max Russell Baldwin
Aug 13, 2015
John Edwards
Enjoyed your photo of Leo.
Post something similar when my airplane is born.
Thanks for all the work you do.
Depend on those 701 DVD's
John E & Mr.Morris
Oct 16, 2015
KEVIN OCONNOR
Hi Jon videos arrived yesterday think the 0-200 runout is what I will go for anything below 8000 is a bargain because thats what continental charge for a crank case, saw a freshly overhauled example in UK GA classifieds for £8000, and crankcase on ebay for $2000,plus I have the manuals rummaging around on the net,what cruise speed do you get with your 0-200 cruzer , I picked the standard ch750 STOL because I thought with the 100hp engine I can get - afford there would not be much difference in cruise,Jan over at viking alludes to this on his site.Go hi tech with viking or rotax and get thru 15 litres an hour get an 0-200 and go thru 20 litres an hr, It probably is the best choice for me, brewing my own auto conversion magnifies all the problems, bespoke FWF parts, the mount aligning it, the carb, the ECU, the redrive/PSRU in the too hard basket, however should I win the lottery I will go with this :) http://flyrotax.com/produkte/detail/rotax-915-is-isc.html
May 31, 2016