Jerry, I thought I was going to be able to go, but my schedule interfered. So unfortunately I didn't make it, even though my work travel placed me just 50 miles away. Bummer.
Hi Jerry
Thanks for the kind words. OK I have to admit I'm a television engineer so electronics are kinda a do it with my eyes closed thing, BUTTTTTT.....
You can do it!!!! Trust me if you can build the plane you can wire it up!!! the best advice is can give you is to make a diagram before you put one wire in the plane. I made and excel sheet showing every from / to connection and I put a number on every wire so i could look it up later when i forgot what is was for. Don't let it scare you one bit make a connection and test as you go.
I made all of the multi pin connectors with long tails and labeled wires before I tried to put anything in the plane. Then is just becomes a matter of following the chart you made!!!
The manufacturers provide harnesses for most of their gear GET THEM Saves hours of grief!!!
I cant say it strong enough if you can build the plane you can wire it up!!!
Jerry, when I installed the gear there was little guidance and no brackets from Zenair, so I had to weld some rods to the bracket. I chose to mount the gear flat side back set to the rear. My logic was to keep the plane from tipping back when stepping up. There was a discussion recently Click Here.
Some have said that with a heavy engine to mount the gear to the rear and to the front with a Jabiru/Rotax. But things have changed with the Upgrade, we are adding 20+ pounds in front of the gear, so it might be that the flat side back to the rear is now the better solution. Does that make sense?
I should be flying in a few weeks and can give you an update. You have the flexibility to temporarily mount the gear and work on other stuff, instrument panel, etc.
You're in a good spot in the building process, not having to pull the Center Spar. Have you built the wings? I'm glad you enjoyed watching the Upgrade process, there were some very difficult days and I hope I have saved others some grief.
Jerry, I've been meaning to thank you for starting the torque tube bearing discussion. I was just starting to put stuff back together and it was an issue that needed to be addressed. I can feel the difference using the nylon. I'm going to add a 1/16" nylon shim/bearing between the stop ring and metal bearing, but that can be done later since it is just a matter of removing the stop ring. I'm using the center Y stick, not sure of the setup for dual sticks.
Nyloil is probably a better choice, I need to get ready for the inspection. It's been almost 5 years.
I was just reading Doug's comment on brake lines, he's describing what I did for my gun drilled Grove gear. Let me know if you want some pictures.
Jerry, I'll make sure I take some extra pictures of the brake lines. I don't have the seat bottoms re-installed and I wouldn't put them in until after you rig the aileron cables.
Jerold
the ul260i looks like a nice engine. But it is only 95 hp. After 6 years of flying I wish I had more power anf toque. Climbing is everything. I am going to change from the subaru to a 0235 Lycoming.
Dave
Jerry, I'm going to do one more ground test, warm the engine up, test the mags and let it run at idle. I need to get it off the ground to test cooling, it should get better ...
Hi Jerry. I started with plans. I have only bought parts that are too big for my brake to handle or too complex. I have done all my own welding on everything but the top engine mount. I have half on the center spar fixed. I need a new back web as the first one came out too tall. I have found a bunch of mistakes in the plans. Not having a kit I don't know how much it is affected by them. Did you find many problems with fit and measurements?
Canopy Bow//
Jerry, I have a 601XL-B. During construction I had to make a canopy adjusement due to minimal edge clearance for the 5/16 inch drilled mounting holes. I used 1/2 inch rolled copper plumbing tubing to make the initial curves that were necessary to get the fit then bent the aluminium bow to match that in the shop.
Jerry
The gear in the most forward position moved the final distance from the datum (leading edge at the 4th rib) 5.75 inches more forward which took 100 lbs off the nose gear to the mains.(will vary w engine choice) This really helps when you rotate. Prior to reversal you still had to pull the nose off the ground and when landing you could not keep the nose wheel up without adding power. Much better especially on grass strips. Tail of aircraft sits approx 6 inches lower while on the ground which is below level.
Larry Winger
May 3, 2009
Larry Whitlow
Thanks for the kind words. OK I have to admit I'm a television engineer so electronics are kinda a do it with my eyes closed thing, BUTTTTTT.....
You can do it!!!! Trust me if you can build the plane you can wire it up!!! the best advice is can give you is to make a diagram before you put one wire in the plane. I made and excel sheet showing every from / to connection and I put a number on every wire so i could look it up later when i forgot what is was for. Don't let it scare you one bit make a connection and test as you go.
I made all of the multi pin connectors with long tails and labeled wires before I tried to put anything in the plane. Then is just becomes a matter of following the chart you made!!!
The manufacturers provide harnesses for most of their gear GET THEM Saves hours of grief!!!
I cant say it strong enough if you can build the plane you can wire it up!!!
Larry
Sep 6, 2009
Jake Reyna
Some have said that with a heavy engine to mount the gear to the rear and to the front with a Jabiru/Rotax. But things have changed with the Upgrade, we are adding 20+ pounds in front of the gear, so it might be that the flat side back to the rear is now the better solution. Does that make sense?
I should be flying in a few weeks and can give you an update. You have the flexibility to temporarily mount the gear and work on other stuff, instrument panel, etc.
You're in a good spot in the building process, not having to pull the Center Spar. Have you built the wings? I'm glad you enjoyed watching the Upgrade process, there were some very difficult days and I hope I have saved others some grief.
Jake
Mar 1, 2010
Jake Reyna
Nyloil is probably a better choice, I need to get ready for the inspection. It's been almost 5 years.
I was just reading Doug's comment on brake lines, he's describing what I did for my gun drilled Grove gear. Let me know if you want some pictures.
jake
Mar 15, 2010
Jake Reyna
jake
Apr 12, 2010
David New
I dont get on this page very often. How far along are you with your 650? Have you decided what engine you will be using?
May 23, 2010
David New
the ul260i looks like a nice engine. But it is only 95 hp. After 6 years of flying I wish I had more power anf toque. Climbing is everything. I am going to change from the subaru to a 0235 Lycoming.
Dave
May 24, 2010
David New
Where are you located?
May 24, 2010
Jake Reyna
Jake
Jul 5, 2010
Ken Seymour
Ken
Jul 14, 2010
Ken Seymour
Jul 16, 2010
Gary Ray
Jerry, I have a 601XL-B. During construction I had to make a canopy adjusement due to minimal edge clearance for the 5/16 inch drilled mounting holes. I used 1/2 inch rolled copper plumbing tubing to make the initial curves that were necessary to get the fit then bent the aluminium bow to match that in the shop.
Gary Ray
Oct 14, 2010
Gary Ray
The gear in the most forward position moved the final distance from the datum (leading edge at the 4th rib) 5.75 inches more forward which took 100 lbs off the nose gear to the mains.(will vary w engine choice) This really helps when you rotate. Prior to reversal you still had to pull the nose off the ground and when landing you could not keep the nose wheel up without adding power. Much better especially on grass strips. Tail of aircraft sits approx 6 inches lower while on the ground which is below level.
Oct 24, 2010
Stephen R. Smith
All parts came from Aircraft Spruce.
Here are some pictures.
Steve
Oct 24, 2010
Jim Snyder
Jerry,
Did you get your flap bearings installed? I am ready to do mine. Could you send some pics of the alignment and install? And, any measurements?
Thanks,
Jim Snyder
Mar 30, 2012
Robert Riat
Hi Jerold,
Would just like to get your opinion? I live at Wamego, KS which is near Manhattan,
and talked to you at the Zenith fly-in in September. You really did a great job on your
plane and I’m just curious if you are satisfied with the power of the 350i? I built a stol
750 last year and installed the 350is engine and, with 75 hours on it, I love the power,
but am running 91 octane fuel because I can’t get 93 octane around here. Anyway,
I am picking up a 650 kit next week which I plan to take a couple years to build and
hope to make it look as good as yours, fly the 40 hours off, sell it and maybe recoup
me investment. The fuel issue is why I am considering the 350i and assuming it still
has good power for that plane. Would really appreciate your opinion.
Robert
Dec 13, 2018