I am due to change out the rubber fuel lines in my 601 XL.  I am going with SS PTFE lines.  When opening the wing how much do I need to open?  I'm assuming the leading edge gets de-riveted - All the way off or just a portion and work in the tight space?  Any words of wisdom, other than be careful, to not over-bend or kink the leading edge skin?  Does the wing root rubber boot need to come off as well?  

The finger screen is 1/4 NPT female to mate to the new lines - correct?

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Not sure why you need to remove wing skins? Just cut the tubing off of the tank fitting leaving some room to get plier on the end to pull if off, after removing the clamp. Then just pull the old line out from inside the cabin. 

Shove the new line thru the grommet hole. Reach thru from the wing access panel and pull the line to the tank fitting. Make sure to put on the clamp before pushing onto the fitting. 

The original builder made no access hole into the wing for the finger screen and fuel line.  That would have been to easy.

You can buy premade access panels cheap, that include the installing frame with the anchor nuts installed, and screws. Why wouldn't you just install two new access panels where they should be? 

Oval access panel

This would be a heck of a lot easier, and safer than drilling out wing skins (who hasn't had the drill slip at just the wrong time drilling out a rivet?).

You fix this once and changing out hoses will be simple 5 years from now.

Even more important, they will let you check for leaks, as well as be able to replace the sending units when they go bad (not if).  

I can't speak to the 601 XL, but I recently added a vent line in my 701 wing. I didn't have to remove the entire leading edge skin - I just kept removing rivets until I could get my arm and tools in where they need to be without kinking the skin. I didn't have to remove any rivets from the outboard ribs, just the ones closer to the fuel tanks. It was tight, but doable. I used a flexible drill extension and a hand squeeze riveter inside the leading edge. My finger screens are 1/4" NPT female.

That is the approach I was thinking as well.  I am thinking the bottom side of the leading edge since that will get me closer to the fittings, allow the rivet cores to drop out when I drill them, and be will not show the unpainted rivets.  I think I can get enough access by removing rivets out to the first rib section beyond the fuel tank.  The one sticky part - pun intended - is the root boot that is glued on.  Assuming I can get it off in one piece, I am not sure what glue is to be used to re-attach it.  

Merrill,

Assuming the finger screen is 1/4" NPT female, Check out these at Summit Racing.

Earl's Performance AN to NPT Adapter Fittings 981606ERL
Earl's Performance Speed-Seal Hose Ends 600136ERL
Earl's Performance Speed-Flex Hose 610006ERL

Earnie

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