Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Matt Archer on April 25, 2011 at 8:44pm

http://www.jabiru.net.au/Service%20Bulletins/Engine%20files/JSB031-...

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Permalink Reply by Michael Herder on April 25, 2011 at 9:38pm

Thanks for the heads up!

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Permalink Reply by Chris Sinfield on April 27, 2011 at 4:52am

Went to our Aussie Natfly  and went to a forum put on by Rod Stiff and Jabiru about their latest developments and the Service Bulletins.

 

you need to check the serial number of your engine and the hours flown before you do anything.. Then reread the SB.. on some engines you have to do just the nuts, others the through bolts as well.

 

Chris

 

 

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Permalink Reply by keith bennett on April 28, 2011 at 10:19pm

These bolts have been a problem for a quite awhile....

I had one break in my early hours of training... (about a year ago)....

Engine started running rough.. then a big vibration.

had to idle the engine and glide back to the strip.... (not too far away)...Also cracked a cylinder as well.... 

I think it's due to harmonics....

 

Had another problem (in a different plane) Dropped a valve on start up....  I believe that was the valve seat coming lose due to cooling shock.....  I think that was the verdict....

Don't know if I would ever install a jab.....

 

Regards Keith

 

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Permalink Reply by adrian dines on September 11, 2013 at 8:40pm

Hi KEITH,

Out of interest, was this engine hydraulic lifter , also which valve ,ex. or inlet?.

The pistons in these engines are in the WRONG WAY ROUND!. We have reversed the pistons in a number of engines with amazing results such as dramatic reduction of vibration, quieter , more power, less fuel consumption, engines run cooler by 50deg f on average. I believe the pistons in the wrong way are the main contributing factor to the bolt failure's , high c/rod brg and main brg wear, due to excessive loading.

pistons in the wrong way ,give similar effects as detonation , in fact I have seen a number of stripped engines , and could not find any signs of detonation, this includes testing the hardness of the piston ,head.

With regard to nut replacement . this should be done with caution ,as these crank case halves almost always fret , retightening these bolts will cause halves to pull together and reduce m/brg clearance. [ another time bomb] even if engine appears to turn over ok ,it does not indicate that the brgs have not got a reduced clearance, which could lead to a seizure or partial seizure some time down the track  . When we change piston's and fit bolts we don't use Loctite on the threads , this enables the bolts to be torqued[checked [ during regular service, so far they remain tight after more than 400 hrs .

Regard's,

Adrian Dines          Automotive Engineer        dmech@westnet.com.au

 

 

    

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Permalink Reply by Victor V kidd on June 15, 2011 at 10:01pm

Has anyone completed the nut replacement?   I'm in the process and have found the bottom nuts next to impossible to replace with the manifolds in place.  Anyone else had this problem?  I haven't removed all of the bottom nuts yet. Is there a special wrench that is available to use on the bottom nuts?  I've found the top nuts to be difficult to remove.  Found some rust on the threads and maybe some locking compound too.  The throughbolts are the toughest. After loosening both nuts, removed one steel nut and replaced with two locking nuts to remove the second nut. The studs seemed easy.  It's been a bear so far. 

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Permalink Reply by Victor V kidd on June 16, 2011 at 9:05pm

Update 6/16:  Completed all but 4 of bottom nuts in 6 hours.  Maybe I'm just slow. Had to remove both intake and exhaust manifold pipes, carby spider and fuel pump.  This made nut replacement easier instead of impossible but not pleasant. The most aft nut on #6 cylinder will require a special wrench I believe. I've tried to find a 7/16 cylinder base wrench but to no avail.  Found several 1/2 and above, no 7/16. I think this would solve the problem.  May have to make one.  More on that later.

Did discover several intake and exhaust manifold allen head machine screws loose.  Not sure why.  By loose I mean just snug enough to require a slight pull on the allen wrench to start the removal.  Not sure of the torque figure during installation or if Locktite is required.  Need to research that for installation. The intake screws have a lock washer, the exhaust don't.  Gaskets on the intake none on the exhaust. I have 30 hours on the engine.

 

It's still a BEAR.  I expect at least one more day.  That will be about 3 days on the nut replacement.  I have a good A&P friend on the job too.  We've been slow and methodical and have had to improvise at times and have learned a lot. The next engine would be easier, maybe just a small bear.

 

You'll need a 7/16 x 3/8 12 point torque adapter tool.  Snap-On has the tool.  It works on the torque wrench as well as a ratchet to help take off the old nuts.   http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=2213&group_ID=268.  I was lucky, a local A&P loaned me the tool.  You'll need a long 1/4" allen wrench 6"s at least. Also two 6" - 8" 7/16" 12 point box wrenches.  You'll also need two nuts to act as lock nuts for the through bolts.  I wouldn't use the steel nuts you take off the bolts. The shoulder on the steel nut gets in the way when you try to hold the first nut you add. You'll probably need someone to hold the lock nuts to keep them from turning as you remove the nut on the other end of the bolt. 

Later.

Victor

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Permalink Reply by Christopher Nail on September 11, 2013 at 3:14pm

All, FYI

I happened to be checking the jab site today. If you haven't been flying (perhaps still building like me) and have put off the first service bulletin you are about to be bitten by part two:

http://www.jabiru.net.au/images/JSB031-2_Engine_Through_Bolts.pdf

The way it reads if you don't accomplish -1 by 10 Oct 13 you have to have your engine broken down and cylinders inspected for cracks; regardless of your total engine time prior to -2 being issued.

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Permalink Reply by Danal Estes on September 18, 2013 at 1:16pm

The service bulletin states that it has not been mandated by any airworthiness authority.  It also states that while numbered as a "Service Bulletin", it is to be considered equivalent to a "Safety Direction" (interesting word.  Should probably 'directive'; still the intent is clear).

In the United States, for S-LSA aircraft, manufacturers "Safety Directives" are mandatory.  For EAB, or E-LSA, they are not. 

That's the legal perspective.  From a safety point of view, it is prudent to comply. 

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