Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Stephen R. Smith on January 18, 2010 at 4:22pm

Apparently there is concern that using the torque wrench on the other side might result in under-torquing because the bolt could be pinched and would resist turning thereby giving a faults high reading. That is what I have heard.

Steve

Permalink Reply by Ben Meyer on January 18, 2010 at 7:09pm

Mathieu,

I am thinking of making an inspection hole below the balance weights(similar to the aileron belcrank access hole). This can be useful for inspections and for increasing the weight in case of a paint job.
Can I do this without compromising the integrety of the wing?

Ben

Permalink Reply by Matt Heintz on January 20, 2010 at 7:45am

Ben,
Yes, make the inspection hole same as the one for the bellcrank.

Permalink Reply by Mike Armstead on January 19, 2010 at 1:05pm

AD-XX Rivets
If anyone accidentally damages any of the holes that uses AD6 rivets here is a company that sell and stocks most sizes of AD8-XX rivets. Most places have a very limited selection of AD8-XX rivets.
www.hansonrivet.com
$17.00 per pound.

Permalink Reply by Timothy R Mix on January 19, 2010 at 1:59pm

Actually there are oversize rivets (drill a #5 hole), going to a 1/4" rivet might not leave good E.D. plus they are hard to shoot.
oversize rivets are NAS1242ADX_X and are available through ECAS East Coast Aircraft Supply
http://www.ecasinc.com/
Cheers!
Tim

Permalink Reply by Mike Armstead on January 19, 2010 at 7:49pm

Unfortunately the longest length NAS1242AD Rivet they carry is -12, which is not long enough. Zenith recommended drilling them out and replacing with a AD8 rivet.

Permalink Reply by Russell Bell on January 20, 2010 at 11:54am

ok thanks for that I havent got my kit as yet regards Russ

Permalink Reply by Mack P. Kreizenbeck on January 24, 2010 at 2:45pm

Greetings Mathieu,

I see that you missed my question on January 18th?

I'm looking for an easier way to torque to the upper nuts on the wing/center spar bolts.

I'm a "back-yard-mechanic", not an engineer, but in my way of thinking -- more torque is needed
on the bolt side of a spar bold/nut application than what is recommended for the nut!

Personnel from your firm has refused to suggest a torque value needed for the head of the bolt other
than use what is recommended for the nut by the FAA publication.

So, can a couple of holes be punched (without affecting structural integrity)into the seat panel -- spar
bolt/nut areas so that it is not impossible to reach the nut with a torque wrench?

If not, what is a recommended bolt-head torque?

Thanks,

Mack

Permalink Reply by Charles L Smith on January 24, 2010 at 4:44pm

Hi there; You want to make some holes to be punched into the seat panel so you can get your wreanch onto
the nut? Dang, the Zenith 601 XL seat panel already has access holes in them?

Permalink Reply by Louis W. Ott on January 24, 2010 at 5:23pm

Mack,
You can't use a torque value for torquing a bolt head. You shouldn't tighten the bolt head, only the nut. The bolt has drag in the bolt hole and it can't really be determined. The wing bolts should be a light drive fit and the torque to rotate them is unknown and variable. They shouldn't be turned anyway. Just say "no" to turning the bolt.

Permalink Reply by Matt Heintz on January 25, 2010 at 6:42am

Mack,
Both Charles and Louis are correct. Torque the head through the access panels in the seats. It is tight but that is what we have been doing. Maybe someone can post a photo of this being done.

Permalink Reply by Bob Pustell on January 26, 2010 at 1:34pm

Mack----- Try a tool called a "torque extender" to torque in that tight area. I use torque extenders to torque the cylinder base nuts on my Franklin engine (in my old Stinson) and they are a life saver. You need to do some math to calculate the number to put into your torque wrench because you are changing the moment arm (length) of the wrench. Once you get the right setting on the torque wrench and have the right size extender on it, you can torque a nut in the darndest places.

I think, with a torque extender on a click-stop torque wrench, you could do that upper nut from inside the seat pan through the existing seat pan access panel. You will need a click-stop type because you will need to feel and hear the wrench as it reaches the setting, you will not be able to view a dial inside that space. There are also electronic beeping and vibrating torque wrenches now, come to think of it, but I like my click-stop units, simple, effective, no batteries to run down.

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• …
• 22
• 23
• 24
• 25
• 26
• Next ›
• Page