I am building a CH 650B.  Only lower back of fuselage completed (while waiting for upgrade kit).  Completing first (left) wing now.  When should I install aileron cables;  before riveting top wing skin, or only after mounting to fuselage?  It would be easier to do when building the wing, but what lengths do you need.  The plans only gives routing, but nowhere on the plans or photo guides are suggested lengths described.  I don't want to cut the cable to come up three inches short.  What have you guys done?

 

Jim Snyder

Indianapolis

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Thanks, Steve. Do you recall what lengths you actually used, including rudder and elevator?
Jim,

It is probably easiest to run the cables just before finishing the top skin. The aft cables go to the torque tube in the middle of the fuselage so that is an easy measurement. The forward, or balance cables, at least on my 601XL, join at a turnbuckle behind the passenger seat. That makes the left wing cable longer than the right wing cable. I put a few feet extra as cheap insurance.

I am just down the road in Cincinnati. Drop me a note if you ever want to come down and see a finished project (601XL, though).

Dave
Thanks, David. I have been following you on-line, and I saw your plane at Oshkosh (one of only two there). Unfortunately, I didn't see you.

Jim
I am not up to building the wings, yet. Here is my tentative plan, however. I intend to string light rope in place of the cables before closing the wing up. Then, I can use the ropes to pull cable later. When I pull the cable, it will be from the fuselage out to the bellcrank, and that end (the bellcrank end) will be finished. Once the bellcrank end is installed, you can cut the fuselage end to fit, with a couple of feet of insurance.

The ropes will save me having to estimate cable length ahead of time, and will eliminate the cable clanking around inside the wing every time you move it around. The rope is also more easily coiled and stowed at the wing root end than is the stiff metal flight control cable.

I have used this method before with pretty good success.
Thanks, Bob. Doesn't look like any easy way to do this. I hoping I wouldn't have to work in the bell crank access hole to make the connections, but ...

Jim

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