Comment

Comment by Chris Aysen on August 16, 2011 at 1:13pm

I am happy with the design. I can tell you the threaded rod is 5/16" national fine thread with locknuts (two on each) and 5/16" special made washers (four on each). They are special made because they have a small pilot that fits on the inside diameter (ID) of the spring and their outside diameter (OD) is the same size as the OD of the spring. I am fairly sure that the OD of the springs is 5/8" (.625) with a wire thickness of 1/8" (.125) and length was roughly 3". On the pedals the threaded rod goes through a clevis type bearing (Aurora AM5); you can see where I drilled thru the pedal to bolt on the clevis bearing. Springs were purchased from McMaster/Carr and clevis bearings from Aircraft Spruce. Don't panic when you see your rudder cables laxing on the airframe. When you put your feet on the pedals everything tightens up.

Comment by Greg Alonso on August 16, 2011 at 11:37am

Chris, my reason to want to copy your copied solution is the same you have. Stiffness of the rudder and also self-centering. I wonder if it would be possible to provide the part numbers for the installation. It takes a long time to do trial and error and if you have the parts info available that would be great. I have to assume that you are very happy with the solution. Let me know if there are any downsides that you are aware off. Thank you for your help.

Comment by Chris Aysen on August 12, 2011 at 12:22pm

Greg - Question#1:  I put springs on both sides to counter-act each other; stabilizing the rudder pedals. My main reason for the whole design (one which I copied) was to be able to turn the rudder without turning the front wheel. Question#2: I imagine it could work but what effect would it have on the rudder pedals?

Chris

Comment by Greg Alonso on August 12, 2011 at 11:11am

Are the rear springs really necessary? Wouldn't this work with just the front springs?