I left extra material at the side edge in order to pull the lexan tight across the fuselage as well as to locate the final trim line for the Lexan. I plan to install the canopy with screws rather than rivets so it can be easily removed. I also added extra material on each lower side (not the original cut line as you see drawn) so as to completely block out air flow at the corner.

Rating:
  • Currently 0/5 stars.

Views: 149

Comment

You need to be a member of Zenith Aircraft Builders and Flyers to add comments!

Join Zenith Aircraft Builders and Flyers

Comment by Cliff Stripling on September 22, 2013 at 9:55am

Kevin - The Lexan is easy to work with.  It is tough, will not break, tear, crack, and bends easily.  You cannot do compound bends but they are not necessary.  I used several tools to work with it - tin snips, big fiberglass cloth shears, scissors of various kinds, files and sandpaper to smooth sharp edges.  When you drill you don't have to drill enlarged holes to prevent cracking like with acrylic.  I am using the .060 +/- thickness.  I forget the thickness number exactly but the standard is something like .040 (too thin), .060, and .090 (which is pretty heavy, harder to bend and more expensive).  I purchased a 4X8 sheet from a company that sells polycarbonate in Austin, Tx. and looked at and considered each thickness.  The medium one is what Zenith supplied with their kits.  Be sure not to cut too close to what you think the edges will be so as to leave plenty of edge for clamping and mistakes in measuring.  Once you have fit and drilled, you can mark and cut off the excess at the sides and around the top perfectly.  Work the forward curve first (obviously you have to cleco the forward fuselage skin in place at least temporarily) and establish the notches on either side as the windshield transitions over the top into the overhead canopy.  I made the "BEANIE" mod that so much has been written about.  That made the transition seamless and so smooth for air flow.  Even if you cut perfectly you will need a hold down bracket on the very front edge between the down tubes to keep the slipstream from getting under and lifting the front lip of the windshield.  Perhaps brackets half way to either side will be needed as well.  I have considered making a molded in place fiberglass transition lip to cover the transition all the way around... easy for me as I have all the materials for that on hand.  Hold down brackets are not pretty however they are made.  Good luck with your windshield/canopy.  You will find it a lot easier to do than you think.  Pretty fun actually and the results make your plane look a lot more finished.

Comment by Kevin McCune on September 22, 2013 at 5:37am

How well did the lexan conform to the bend and what thickness are you using.

Kevin

New from Zenith:

Zenith Planes For Sale 
 

Classified listing for buying or selling your Zenith building or flying related stuff...


Custom Instrument Panels
for your Zenith
:

Custom instrument panels are now available directly from Zenith Aircraft Company exclusively for Zenith builders and owners. Pre-cut panel, Dynon and Garmin avionics, and more.


Zenith Homecoming Tee:


Zenair Floats


Flying On Your Own Wings:
A Complete Guide to Understanding Light Airplane Design, by Chris Heintz


Builder & Pilot Supplies:

Aircraft Insurance:

 
 

West Coast USA:

 
Pro Builder Assistance:

 

Transition training:

Lavion Aero

K&S Aviation Services

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty for all your building and pilot supplies!

How to videos from HomebuiltHELP.com

Developed specifically for Zenith builders (by a builder) these videos on DVD are a great help in building your own kit plane by providing practical hands-on construction information. Visit HomebuiltHelp.com for the latest DVD titles.

© 2024   Created by Zenith.Aero.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service