Comment

Comment by Randy Cross on January 27, 2019 at 11:39am

http://www.ultralightnews.ca/rectifiers/912regulatorrectifernstalla...  Provides some clarification on wiring

Comment by Randy Cross on July 14, 2018 at 4:21pm

701schematic%20for%20rotax%20912%20cropped.jpg  Found this in my CH701 File for Rotax 912 basic engine wiring. Could be from Ron Croke download.

Randy

Comment by Tommy Walker on March 5, 2009 at 10:15am

Pat,
If you will send me your physical address, I will mail you a copy of my hand made electrical drawings for my 701. It doesn't have everything, but it should help you get started.

Email your address to twalker@cableone.net

Regards,
Tommy Walker in Alabama

Comment by Ralph Sanson on March 5, 2009 at 2:53am

First you need to decide which one of the 3 diagrams you wish to adopt. They have different reasonings about what is needed and what might fail and how a stressed pilot might best handle the situation.

I have adopted the simple scheme. I do electronics for a day job and been doing it long enough to know that they are all smoke driven and when smoke escapes they dont go anymore. Transistors and diodes leak in the blink of an eye so i go with real switches and none of these electronic protectors.

Your panel appears to have a row of fuses. Whilst thats perfectly OK if they are the quarter turn release type I would consider changing to switch circuit breakers or manual set/unsettable breakers. 10 years of a C150a taught me how easy it is to get messed up trying to check and change a fuse on the run.

Once you have the diagram of choice to follow, try to run all the ground return lines to one place on the firewall behind the panel, just pile up as many crimp tabs to as few bolts as you can deal with. Try to crimp most connections rather than solder or screw clamp terminals, these are particuarly bad especially the brass buss bars for house wiring. I did my 701 wiring rather loosley, and used nylon cable ties to keep wires in order and out of harms way. I think aeroelectric recommends a couple inches loose between any bundle and the connection, allow flex.

Most of your gauges will have a + 12v connection to power them and a ground to go to the airframe, and a wire out to the sender which is usually grounded to the engine or airframe-for the fuel senders.

I left the illumination lights out of the gauges as i shouldnt be flying past dark and carry a torch if I get caught out. that a lot less wiring, weight etc.

Hope that helps. I'm not that good at drawing, and it depends exactly what you have and the way you want to run it. The diagrams in the Cessna owners books are quite visual, though, to give the idea, especially the way they put similar items on separate circuits - such as both fuel gauges are not powered thru the same breaker, typically left fuel and engine oil temp might come from one breaker while right fuel and oil pressure would use a different breaker, so a fault in one area does not take out everything of that type of equipment.

Ralph

Comment by Chumphol Sirinavin on March 4, 2009 at 3:15pm

Sorry, Pat. I am a dummy in this field also.

You may trry: Electrical Wiring101 for your Homebuilt Aircraft. Look it up at HomebuiltHelp.com.

Champ