Hi Paul got my fuel valve today it's the V1 4 way . the valve body has three holes on the lower end of the valve with no indication of what is supposed to feed what tank or motor,or what is to go to what hole, tried to email the co but that didn't work to well, that was probably me. This valve has 4 positions off, both, l, R. there are no marking on the valve or in the very modest instructions as to how to plumb it? how did you do yours? thanks for any advice. Ron
Paul I feel your pain. I am verry lucky I was able to work on my project almost nonstop for 6 months and finished in that time. I am a total beginner like yourself. After reading some of your posts I can relate. like where or when do you install antennas. You will run into this often. If you call zenith as often as I did they need to be on speed dial. Roger is very halpful, if you get sent to Kaleb he will make you feel like a fool. I bought the videos and they helped alot, but there were still many ? . I have 55 hrs on my plane since my first flight Jan. 1st. and all I can say is hang in there. It really is worth the trouble. I am having a ball.
If you can build the plane, you can build the motor. I built a Corvair for my CH 750 and have a great time doing it. I encourage you to go to a Corvair College; you learn so much. Google CC#22 to check oout some of the pictures.
Regarding you fuel sender hole cutting needs. On one of my visits to the US in 2008, I purchased an adjustable cutter with HSS blade from Sears for 20 bucks. I bought it for the very same job and works well. Be sure to use it slowly with light pressure though. Also fantastic for cutting instrument holes.
Gidday Paul. Dual nationality = dual flags. Good idea, been to Osh a couple of times and noted many stars & stipes in various graphics.........generally look good. I'd like to see finished pix. Be careful though as you may not know wether you are coming or going!
Hi Paul, The 3M wrap has an adhesive on one side and is very thin and flexible. It is quite easy to smooth on and position. It easily conforms to rivets. On sharp edges you undercut the vinly and smooth it into place. If you cover a sharp edge it will eventually cut through the film. The film is warranted for 7 years. I am expecting that if you keep the plane hangared it should last at least 10 or 12 years. Good luck on your project.
Thanks Paul, for the comment. Just finished priming tonight, Hope to get it riveted together tomorrow. I thought my rudder was warped too but when I drilled for the nose skin it seemed to pull everything together. Thanks, Joe
My decision to complete the wings before the fuselage is based on work shop location. The wings can be completed in the basement and there is a way to get them out. I will have to move to the garage (which is not heated) to complete the fuselage. So my plan is to do fuselage construction during spring and summer.
Are you going to paint your plane? I'm leaning towards polished finish with some paint.
You asked about an air compressor for your project. May I suggest you consider the tools you are or may use and the requirements they have, some tools require a greater CFM than others to operate properly and some require more pressure. The size of the storage tank will detrmine how long you can operate your unit before the compresser kicks in to recharge so if you don't want it to run all the time pick one with sufficent storage. If you are going to paint your project you will proably use it for that as well so cheap isn't the way to go. You can obtain a quality unit at a reasonable price if you look around, the longest lasting ones are oil type, but you could get by with an oilless if you don't plan on having it for a long time. Air compressors have many uses beyond building an airplane, I happen to have two, one at home for my workshop there and one in the hangar for working on the airplane, My preference is a vertical tank of at least 20 gal and a minimum of 5hp motor, Sears has an excellent selection. Hope this has been of some help to you. Good luck on your project it is a great experience.
Dog takes a better picture than me, he has more sense than to fly with me.
Grew up in San Diego in the 50's as a kid, lived in La Mesa
I will post reg comments as I begin the construction, awaiting the rudder kit now.
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Hi Paul got my fuel valve today it's the V1 4 way . the valve body has three holes on the lower end of the valve with no indication of what is supposed to feed what tank or motor,or what is to go to what hole, tried to email the co but that didn't work to well, that was probably me. This valve has 4 positions off, both, l, R. there are no marking on the valve or in the very modest instructions as to how to plumb it? how did you do yours? thanks for any advice. Ron
Paul I feel your pain. I am verry lucky I was able to work on my project almost nonstop for 6 months and finished in that time. I am a total beginner like yourself. After reading some of your posts I can relate. like where or when do you install antennas. You will run into this often. If you call zenith as often as I did they need to be on speed dial. Roger is very halpful, if you get sent to Kaleb he will make you feel like a fool. I bought the videos and they helped alot, but there were still many ? . I have 55 hrs on my plane since my first flight Jan. 1st. and all I can say is hang in there. It really is worth the trouble. I am having a ball.
Paul,
If you can build the plane, you can build the motor. I built a Corvair for my CH 750 and have a great time doing it. I encourage you to go to a Corvair College; you learn so much. Google CC#22 to check oout some of the pictures.
Blaine
Hi Paul
I use the hole cutter in my cordless drills which have 3/8 chucks so you will be fine.
Phill
This is the exact one.
Phill
HI Paul
Regarding you fuel sender hole cutting needs. On one of my visits to the US in 2008, I purchased an adjustable cutter with HSS blade from Sears for 20 bucks. I bought it for the very same job and works well. Be sure to use it slowly with light pressure though. Also fantastic for cutting instrument holes.
Phill
Hi Paul,
My decision to complete the wings before the fuselage is based on work shop location. The wings can be completed in the basement and there is a way to get them out. I will have to move to the garage (which is not heated) to complete the fuselage. So my plan is to do fuselage construction during spring and summer.
Are you going to paint your plane? I'm leaning towards polished finish with some paint.
Tom
You asked about an air compressor for your project. May I suggest you consider the tools you are or may use and the requirements they have, some tools require a greater CFM than others to operate properly and some require more pressure. The size of the storage tank will detrmine how long you can operate your unit before the compresser kicks in to recharge so if you don't want it to run all the time pick one with sufficent storage. If you are going to paint your project you will proably use it for that as well so cheap isn't the way to go. You can obtain a quality unit at a reasonable price if you look around, the longest lasting ones are oil type, but you could get by with an oilless if you don't plan on having it for a long time. Air compressors have many uses beyond building an airplane, I happen to have two, one at home for my workshop there and one in the hangar for working on the airplane, My preference is a vertical tank of at least 20 gal and a minimum of 5hp motor, Sears has an excellent selection. Hope this has been of some help to you. Good luck on your project it is a great experience.
Grew up in San Diego in the 50's as a kid, lived in La Mesa
I will post reg comments as I begin the construction, awaiting the rudder kit now.
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