Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Gary Burdett on October 2, 2011 at 6:30pm

I drilled and clecoed all my cabin parts together before fitting to the rear fuselage and when it came to removing the seat base, I found that it wanted to shift after the clecos were remove probably due to the cabin sides pulling in once the fuses were joined. I have had to put in and take out the seat base several times and each time I use a pin punch(or ice pick) to line up one or two holes and they get back into line. Since all of the holes were drilled from factory pilot holes, I am not concerned. Try a punch or pick and you may find not a lot of force is actually needed to line up the holes.

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Permalink Reply by Dr. Edward L. Olds III on October 2, 2011 at 9:37pm

Gary,

Thanks, I've used that trick before, but I thought this was much harder.  I'll give it another try, using your idea.

Ed

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Permalink Reply by Dr. Edward L. Olds III on October 4, 2011 at 2:50pm

Ken,

Thanks for the reply, but no, my problem is with the seat base, the edges that contact the cabin sides.  Those holes don't line up.  I have the 81 degree rear channel.  I think the problem is in how they tell us to drill the holes.  The procedure leaves a lot to be desired.

Ed

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Permalink Reply by Dr. Edward L. Olds III on October 9, 2011 at 12:35am

Ken,

What do you mean by the angle attachment being a good thing?  I've looked at the thread, but that seems to be discussing how to rivet the sides to the tunnel?

Ed

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Permalink Reply by John Austin on October 9, 2011 at 7:20am

You can use the same technique (except it takes 3 separate angles instead of one long one) on the outboard side, too. Looks like it would be especially helpful if you have alignment issues - you could match-drill the angles to your present holes and not have to force the fit. Then, match-drill the seat base to the angles (cut off the three flanges on the outboard side of the seat base, of course).

I only did the inboard/tunnel side because I had already done the outboard side and didn't have any problems. BUT, if I had known about this prior to drilling the outboard side, I would have definitely gone with this method!

John

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Permalink Reply by Dr. Edward L. Olds III on October 9, 2011 at 10:15am

John,

That is about what I have decided to do on this one.  I'll call Caleb to check, but I see no other way.  If the original directions are followed, it seems to screw things up down the line.

Ed

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Permalink Reply by Dr. Edward L. Olds III on October 9, 2011 at 6:06pm

So, the general consensus is that you have to install l angles?

Permalink Reply by Dr. Edward L. Olds III on October 9, 2011 at 11:54pm

John,

It FINALLY dawned on me that the reason I wasn't getting your total message was that you used the method for the inside edges, along the console.  That would be easy, but the problem I had was that I used the Zenith construction manual and the Jon Croke tapes and neither did a very good job of guiding me through the drilling of the OUTSIDE seat base flanges to the cabin sides.  I think I'm just going to have to redesign how I accomplish the task.  

Ed

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Permalink Reply by John Austin on October 10, 2011 at 7:15am

I think you missed the point of my post yesterday. On the OUTSIDE flanges, you can use a similar technique to the INSIDE flange. You'll have to make at least 3 individual lengths of L angle for the outside flanges, since the cabin sidewall is divided up by vertical stiffeners. Just match-drill each individual L to the outside cabin sidewall holes you have already drilled and cleco them in place. Then, cut off the three flanges on the outboard side of the seat base, lay the seat base in place on top of the L's, and match-drill the base along the outboard side to the L's. That way, there will be NO alignment problems!

I did the inboard/tunnel side with an L mainly because it is just a PITA to rivet with the torque tube and all the fuel and brake lines I have in the tunnel. It's up to you as to method, but looks like this would work well for the outboard side, especially if there are alignment issues.

John

Permalink Reply by Dr. Edward L. Olds III on October 10, 2011 at 11:16pm

John,

I hope this message gets to you?  There is no button to reply on the message you sent that included the PITA comment.  

No, I knew exactly what you meant and may in fact use that method to fix my situation.  I called Caleb and he said that would work.

I had no trouble getting the inside edges to fit properly, but that may be why the outside does not.  I'm going to try a few things tomorrow and then make a decision.

Something is just "amiss" with this part of the project.

Ed

Permalink Reply by Kenneth Stapleton on August 1, 2019 at 1:19pm

Hi John

I know I'm late to the party, but your idea was a lifesaver. The support supplied in my kit was(is) horrible! Only a couple of holes lined up and I really didn't want my fuse side to look like swiss cheese. I incorporated your method and had the job done in minutes...took longer to set up the saw for the L angle cut than anything! 

Again, I thank you and also take this opportunity to remind the group that new builders are coming along every day.

Thanks

Ken

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