Hey guys, do any of you have pictures of a dual throttle set up for a UL350? Considering one for a CH750 STOL.

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James, if you can wait a couple days I can snap a few pics on mine.  Anything in particular you want to see?

Dave

Hi David I also have a Dual Throttle cables kit for my CRUZER to connect to my UL Power 350iS engine but the swivel part that connects the throttle cable to the engine throttle lever only appears to accept one cable.

However in the FWF kit there is another part, ULDTP a flat piece of aluminum 1 1/8" long x 5/8" x 1/8" thick and I cant see where this goes or allows for two cables to connect.

Can you please send me a photo of yours. My email address in Australia is gregbevpriest@gmail.com

Regards

Greg Priest

Apologies I've missed you asking the question.  Here's a picture of my dual cable setup.  Yes, the flat piece of aluminum is for connecting the throttles together.  I used a dual throttle connector from Viking which is treaded and thicker.  But the included part will work just fine.  I had to use an offset to be able to make it against the throttle stop.

The ULP main dealer in the UK has these, I have dual throttle cable into my 350i in my 650b. 

I installed dual throttles on my STOL 750 (350i).  I first used the supplied throttle connector, but two problems arise.  First, I do not trust a pressed in ball connector for my throttle control.  So, I changed it to a trunnion style connection which also took care of the second problem, which is the binding that happens due to the geometry of the throttle connection as you go to idle.  I made an offset from the trunnion bearing the throttle which changed the geometry and now I get a prefect idle of 850 rpm.  Picture below.

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Thank you Dave......Brilliant work......nice and solid.

How did you adjust the throttle cable length to get say a 1/4" buffer when throttle is fully pushed towards the instrument panel as per Jon Croke's videos.

My only problem was to keep the idle position geometry from binding against the FWF supplied throttle clamp.  Once I made the offset to the allow the primary throttle not to bind against the clamp, having WOT with buffer was no problem.  I'm using the FWF Kit supplied throttle cable.  Once you can achieve WOT position (with engine off) then you need to keep adjusting prop angle to limit RPM to below 2900 at WOT.  That was achieved with position 5 pin on a Sensenich prop.  If you are using a DUC or Whirlwind, they have a ballpark angle setting in their install guide.  But please think about not using the supplied throttle connector.  I wouldn't trust a pressed ball connection.  Besides, you can't make an offset with it to overcome the geometry.

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