My kit arrived 3 days ago. I have been sorting inventory of parts. My airline pilot son is making it known that he likes the Jabiru 3300 engine. I would appreciate input on engine choice.
I do have some time, I just got my kit
Also: I need to paint the steel parts and the interior aluminum parts. I'm thinking Zinc Chromate for aluminum, and an Epoxy paint for the steel. Comments?
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Congrats Eugene! Are you going for LSA or E-AB certification?
Hi Efe! Your question is a bit confusing - I don't think it's an "either/or" - previously, all EAB's could be built to either comply with LSA regulations or not, depending on the max gross weight. However, unless I misunderstand MOSAIC, the gross weight rule is out and now it is all based on performance-based standards. It would appear to me that it would be difficult to build a 650 that wouldn't qualify as a LSA under the new MOSAIC rules - mo max wt. limit, 650 only has 2 seats, stalls under 59 kts, etc.???
You're definitely right, John!
Under MOSAIC, the arbitrary 1,320 lb ceiling is replaced by performance-based criteria:
Since the CH 650B naturally has:
Even with a heavier engine, extended 30-gallon wing tanks, a full avionics panel and a higher certified gross weight—will inherently qualify for Sport Pilot operational privileges under MOSAIC while still being registered under the standard Experimental Amateur-Built (E-AB) category.
Nice to see the FAA get something right for a change! :)))
Thanks. I was going to do E-AB but by your description below, it doesn't matter. I am a PPL. Do I need to call or write the FAA to let them know I'm building? It sounds like the nearest DAR agent is in Spokane WA, 5 hrs away by car.
Early on, I don't think it is necessary to notify the FAA. The EAA has an excellent guide book/kit available on how to register your aircraft and leads you through the process step-by-step. You probably will want to touch base with the FAA at some point, however, if you are wanting them to do your airworthiness inspection so as to get an idea of what sort of lead-time they are experiencing. If you use a DAR, the same applies - well in advance of completion, it's good to touch base with the DAR and make sure they will be available to do your inspection and how much notice they require. I went the DAR route with my build and it worked out great because the DAR was knowledgeable about the Zenith CH 750 STOL and actually told me to "let him fill out all the paperwork" as it is critical that all FAA paperwork be exactly correct - otherwise, it gets kicked back to you with the resultant delays.
Thanks for the info John. I really don't want a paper mess.
Things have changed somewhat under MOSAIC. Here's an article from Kitplanes that provides some insight.
There were some problems with the early Jabiru engines, but it seems like most of that has been worked out for several years now. However, because the engine is six cylinder carbureted, there can be issues getting temps right. Seems like most builders have to work on that in the beginning, making adjustments to intake and cooling airflows to get it dialed in. My general advice on engines is to not buy too early. It is very easy to think that you are going to actually need the engine a lot sooner than reality. In other words, try to avoid having a new engine just sitting in the shop for several years.
With the Gen 4, at least in my experience, cooling is NOT an issue! I previously had a late Gen 2 and indeed had to do some tweaks to get the cylinder and oil cooling correct, including tweaking the diverter vanes in the ram air ducts, sealing the ducts where they meet the engine, bigger oil cooler (10-row) etc. However, on the Gen 4, I literally pulled the Gen 4 out of the crate and mounted it, installed the factory-supplied ram air ducts with no adjustments or sealing, went back to a 7-row oil cooler, and the cylinders and oil cooled perfectly ... it was literally "plug n play!" And, this was in a 750 STOL, which is a high-drag/low speed airframe - not the best environment for a 6-cylinder air cooled engine. It should do equally well or better with the reduced drag and higher speeds of the 650. I think the significant difference is that the Gen 4 cylinders are all-aluminum with Nikasil coating vs the earlier cylinders that were aluminum with steel liners. The Gen 4 cools so well I now have to block off about 1/2 the oil cooler in the winter to keep the oil temps up. Even on the hottest summer days, the cylinders run about 270's-280's F with one or two occasionally touching 300-305F - well under the 356F continuous cruise limit.
Thanks for the info
Honestly I plan to go with the Viking 195T for my 650
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