I have to install a new prop on my 701. I am installing the Woodcomp Klassic 170 which was original equipment.

I am interested to hear what protractor or level people have used. The DUC protractor is recommended by the prop supplier.

I appreciate any input here.


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I use a "Smart Level" to set pitch on my Warp Drive. I measure the angle of the hub, then the angle of a blade with the blade horizontal. The difference is the angle of the blade. Turn prop 180 deg and measure the other side. Smart level is digital and measures to 0.1 degrees. I tried the protractor but didn't think it was very accurate.

I purchased a digital level from Sears , about $35 it is VERY accurate, I have even set the pitch off of the airplane, to within 0.1 degree you only need a level, stable, surface ...Bob

Thanks Bob.  One of my concerns was the back side of the prop being flat and whether the straight edge of the level would sit flat. Your answer seems to clear that up since I am installing a Woodcomp prop just like the one I have seen on your plane.

Thanks again and safe flying.

We have used the DUC and the Warpdrive setters.  I find the Warpdrive more accurate, for less effort... but each method can be as accurate as the other - if you have the patience and 'eye' for it.  Digital tools are cool - if set up correctly... but remember, experience is the key... take your time and build your experience level... perhaps even ask to assist somebody else, or ask for a friend with experience to assist!

I appreciate the feedback.guys.

Pete Krotje at Jabiru North America had a great tip - once one blade is set at the desired pitch and in a horizontal position, measure the height of the tip above the floor. Temporarily attach a small laser vertically across the back of the blade at a fixed distance from the tip and mark the spot on the floor where the laser strikes.

Then, rotate each successive blade of a 2 or 3 blade prop to the same position and tip height above the floor (keep the plane tightly chocked so it doesn't move!), attach the laser in the same position relative to the tip, and adjust the pitch of that blade til the laser hits the same spot.  Because of the distance involved from the blade to the floor, it should get the pitch of all the blades identical!

I'll confess I haven't tried it yet and I can see where you would have problems if your tracking is off, but I suspect if you can even get "close" to the same laser spot over that distance, you're closer on matching pitch than any other method.



Sounds like a great way to verify your settings. I can see using my warp drive tool as the primary and using the laser in the same position to verify. From my limited experience it takes practice to get within a half a degree accuracy on all the blades (in my case). Having a second point of reference sounds ideal to me. I am going to try this this coming weekend. Thanks for the tip !


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