I'm not a fan of throttle spring to wide open.  Has anyone removed this feature?  Will removing it affect warranty? 

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Probably a question best asked of UL Power directly.  Please post their reply so we all know.  Cheers!

At this juncture, UL Power is "Dancing" around the question without a definite answer.

I'd be curious what you would like the throttle arm to do in the event of a throttle cable disconnect.

I would like it to remain where it is, as it does on almost all other aircraft.  Problem with loaded to wide open is that one must tighten the friction lock to prevent creeping.  This restricts the co-pilot's throttle.

Rotax is the only other engine I'm aware of that loads the throttle to side open.

I think I would rather have the option of getting full power out of my disconnected engine in the event I broke the throttle control pulling back to idle during a normal descent. That could just be me though.

Yep, to each his own.  Not advocating this for everyone.  I've been flying for 55 years and never had a throttle cable break.  Of course. I've also never used stranded "pull only" cable either.  I use solid push-pull cable or pushrods.

I designed a pushrod setup for the Rotax powered CH601HDS that I built in the mid 90s and it has over 2500 trouble free hrs on it.

" Problem with loaded to wide open is that one must tighten the friction lock to prevent creeping."

AHA! So that is why I need to continually adjust the throttle back and relock it on my 260. Seems like most of the time I can't get it tight enough to stay where I want it. I knew it was loaded to wide open, but never realized that until now.

I can't imagine removing the spring would do anything to the engine's reliability. 

Is there some way of spring loading it to mid throttle position? Have some mechanism that pulls both open and close and meets in the middle? Or is the throttle cable only supposed to pull the throttle closed and the spring pulls it open?

I would not want to add complexity to the situation.

I’m of the same opinion on this and would love to see UL come up with an “optional procedure” or kit to remove the spring. I urge owners to provide feedback to UL. The full return and required friction knob setting seems to cause problems at the least opportune times.

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