Norm

If you talk to many CH701 flyers the older flat style CH701 gear works better on floats. Higher angle of incidence and lower centre of gravity...easier to refuel on floats. The flat style gear would be left on your existing floats (permenantly mounted). Give Bob Jones in Alaska a phone call he will confirm what I say is true...my buddy Carl Bertrand also conducted take-off tests side X side with another newer style float mounted CH701 and the 80 hp old style gear actually out performed the newer set up in a CH701 with Rotax 912S 100 hp. Bob Stuart has two of the older flat style main gear. One off his CH701 that he converted, and one off a wrecked CH701 (Subaru EA81...fuel starvation).

normand

what make you build this aircraft if you already co-own an pa-28 ??

That's great Normand. Anxious to hear how the inspection goes.

I don't know for a fact but through a friend of mine that the corrosion protection in Canada on Homebuilts have to be on the whole area not only the mating(touching) parts?

I already have all my tail section and flaps and slats done. I followed what most were saying about corrosion proctection but sure hope i don't have to redo the corrosion protection on all those parts  -:)

Keep us updated...it sure helps the builders that follows.

Andre

Norm

Phone Bob Stuart and ask him about paperwork. 613-432-2075.

If Homebuilt he was just through the process... if AULA the you need Fit For flight Form and..Statement of Conformity. Only kit built CH701 can be AULA.

Normand,

Are you building as an ultralight for max gross weight of 1232lbs?

If you are building as amateur home built, you need pre-cover inspection and then a last inspection when all is ready for flight.

Where are you in the inspection process?  have you had inspections yet?

Good luck..

Andre

Part 1  2000 character limit

Hi Normand

Thanks for your comments on my painting photo. I am painting using a gravity feed spray gun. If I was going to buy another new gun, I would definately buy a gravity feed HVLP instead. These HVLP guns put out a lot less overspray dust so they use less paint. My paint booth is simply an area of 10' x 20' with ropes around the perimeter and criss crossing for which I drape plastic drop sheets over the top. I also drape drop sheets around all sides. I have a fan blowing the overspray out a hole in the plastic to outside. I am finding that my fan is not sufficient to evacuate the booth quick enough but it is better than nothing. I am going to add a filter paper to one wall for the fan to draw through for more flow. If you are going to use 2 pack paints, make sure that you get yourself a good mask that filters the gasses and organics from the air you are breathing or better still, buy a positve pressure spray painters face mask and pump for $1000 or so. I use a mask that I purchased from the same place that I bought  the paint and is designed for the job. Also wear the mask even when you are mixing the paint or anytime you are anywhere near wet paint. Sorry to ramble on about the mask side of things but if you don't wear the right gear, you will get pretty sick from this stuff. Also wear a full disposible paper suit with hood and goggles if you can find some that don't fogg up on you.

Part 2  

 I used epoxy primer surfacer. Make sure that you lay it on wet enough for it to dry out completely flat so that just a light rub with a scourer is required when it is hard. My epoxy primer was designed to be able to have the topcoat applied directly over it without scouring after 30 minutes (wet on wet), but if you don't smoothen it up, it effects the final finnish. Your finnish will only look as good as your primer.

  My topcoat is a polyurethane enamel 2 pack epoxy high solids, high opacity paint. I thin to its maximum capacity so that I am putting on the least amount of paint possible. Don't use more reducer than specified because the surface of the paint will dry before the reducer has evaporated and the next day you will see tiny pin pricks in your paint called solvent pop. The instructions for these paints are usually very accurate.

I hope this helps you a bit.

Phill

Hi Norm, thanks . Perhaps you can tell me what exactly type you have, what force, speed, movement.

Are you satisfacted  whit it. How many position you have, how you now in which position you have flaps?

Are you fly whit negative position? 

Thanks!

Uros

Hi Norm,

Thanks for the tip re change-over from floats to wheels.  I think I will fashion a similar plate an just leave it permanently installed on both forward wing attach bolts. 

Bill

Hi again, Norm,

Do you remove the nose gear and strut when you convert to floats or just remove the fork and wheel and leave the strut in place?

Bill Bear

Normand!

I think you were not wearing your respirator again...watch those fumes!   it's not a bird...it's a wolf -:)

Norm,

Thanks for the vote of confidence in my dual stick setup! I was thinking of making both sticks removable for maintenance access under the panel.

Steve Winn

Merci du commentaire.  Je prévois utiliser un réservoir d'essence sous l'appareil "belly tank".  Centre de gravité plus bas et ailes repliables plus légertes à manipuler.  Tu mentionnes CH701SP.  SP sport pilot?.  Lorsque j'ai commandé mon plan en juin dernier, je n'ai pas remarqué ce détail.

Éric B

That's where I fly from in lachute. I'm there almost every saturday with Jean Francois Blanchette at the Avitas flight school.

Wow, she looks awesome! You are gonna have alot of fun!

No real unusual suprises. I was suprised how little stick input you need to manuever.

How amazing the climb is on take off.

The Visibility in flight.

Flew awesome with the doors off, no perceived extra drag and was amazingly fun.

Durability: Very tough airplane- I replaced a hollow nosewheel axel at around 50 hours, the new one is solid. Might want to ask Zenith for this if you have the old one. New one is from 750. I did wheelbarrow my old one down the runway a couple times till I got my landings down.

Brian

Norm

No problem doing type training on my CH750. My charge is presently $30 / hr to cover fuel. I work 12 shift (3 days / week). Phone me to check on availability as I have commitments to CH750 test flight & type training this month in Kitchener at Can-Zac. I live 1 hr drive north of Ottawa on hwy #17. 613-432-8496  :>)  Bob

Hi Normand:

Re: Door Hinges

Thanks for your thoughts and encouragement. The ideal door for myself would be a Super Cub type that would allow upper half to be folded up on warm days but ZAC has really impressed me with their bubble window which probably wouldn't work as well as a flat window if folded up below the wing.

Brian

Hey Norm, as requested, I posted my sketches of my dual stick build in my photos.

I hope they are useful to someone.

Steve

Hi Norm,  The filler that I used on the nose of my 750 is of two types.  First, the white stuff is "Super Poly-Fill Polyester Fairing/filling compound" that I got at my local boat/fiber glass supply.  Since the cowlings are Polyester in construction, I used that material for the rough in filling.  That stuff is hard and tough.  It adhears to the origional cowl with a bit of sanding to rough the gel coat up.  When I let it cure (min. over night) I sanded it smoother.  Then, I used a filler from "PolyFiber".  I like it very much. I have used it on my past two birds.  It is lighter in weight but I think it is a bit softer.  It is called "SuperFil".  It is easier to sand and is a two part filler and will take an hour or more to begin to set up.  The Polyester begins to set up within 5 min or so.  So I use the white hard stuff first and then the blue stuff to finish it.  I hope that helps.  E-mail me at RV9Jim@Juno.com  for more info. 

Thanks Norm, Its been a lot of fun. Love your floats.

Hi Norm, i took my plane to a custom car shop and they did the whole interior right there in there shop. 2" thick seats and back, side panels up to the fire wall and floor and console, all for $1,000.00  

i love it and thanks Ron

hey norm bruce hood here i really like your plane. i would like to know some performance data .and your prop size and pitch. and is your elevater bell crank seperated from your flaperon controll shaft . by the way i too am building a 701 from scratch with ea 81 sub prop is 68 inch 3 blade warp drive thanks i really enjoy your site

Norm, thanks for the bump update, I just had to know. As I mentioned, you're doing great work!

Jake

Hi Norm, thx,  sorry I haven't gotten back to you. I did realize I have a comment page on my own page I have to check. Oh well.  Enjoy watching your progress as you go. Looks like your very close. Remember to breath, lol.  Pat

Norm

I fly out of Cobden, it is CPF4 in the VFR suppliment.

Most insurance co. want a trype check out by a person with 100+ hrs on type. I have 170 hrs CH750. I can sign your log book as time on type check out. You do not solo in my CH750, I fly right seat and you sit in the left (I can fly either hand). I charge only fuel costs of $35/hr. I do this only to keep you safer than if you try flying without any type training. 613-432-8496 (H)  613-432-17312 (cell) 

Thank you for getting back with me on the seats. My plane is at Jabiru USA and I saw the Noral seats and wondered about them fitting and what size, and, low and behold heres your picture on the build site with the Norals.  Thanks now I can make the purchase with confidence, you helped out a fellow 701 owner. Thank you Normand....Dan Robinson

hi norm

check out my page im a fellow subaru guy

 let me know how she flies im getting close  to that time

thanks norm

i am painting my wings this week and then i will be taking them to the airpot to bolt them on an then i guess i will be taxiing also  keep you posted

thanks again

Hi Norm, that is a good question about the 2000c up load ?? i have not done one since i put it in and at this time do not have an answer for you ?? i will have to check this out ??

thanks Ron

safe flying

Hi Norm, i down loaded the free trial and it seams to be a good system for our 2000C

i sent them an e-mail asking questions about airport info. and i am waiting for there answer ?? BUT if you buy there system it seams like it should work great, and it is better then buying a new GPS

i will let you know what they say back to me.

thanks Ron

Hi Norm, well they got back to me and they do not have any thing for the 2000c as far as aviation up dates . now the 2000c in on there web sight but they only up load maps, and that is maps that they have written, not aviation maps, just road maps.

so we are back to square one again.

Ron

Norm I have something in a gear warning system in the works. Mirrors on jury strut help..if you look at the opposite side float from the mirror. Left mirror checks right float gear for example.

Thanks for the info on radiators Norm

my engine is the 1.3 suzuki (80ci) Raven

I hope to hear it run this winter, still a long ways to go on the build.

Happy flying to you.

Bob

you are one step away from be Airborne

Norm

If your into a redo on the cowls to fit radiator??? Good time to try the following, Make a large opening with a 2.5 to 3 inch lip down ward on 45 degree angle directly below bottom of the rear exit of radiator. This lip will draw a vacuum on cowls and really suck air in through radiator and oil cooler. You can always go back and tighten the cowls later if your too cold. My experience with Subaru is your going to be fighting to cool the engine. In a car it never ran 4500 rpm steady power output....2nd gear 110 km.

Hi Norm

As you may have noticed I use a Subaru EA-81 engine and a variable pitch propeller CAP 140, both of the bankrupt NSI. Because of this my plane weighs about 40 to 50 kilograms (90 to 110 lb) more than one equipped with Rotax 912. To compensate for this disadvantage, I increase the wingspan to 9 meters (about 29ft 6 in) and reinforced the wing spar and wing / strut and strut / fuselage fixtures. Operating empty weight is about 380 kilograms (835 pounds), with a Max takeoff weight of 600 kg (1325 lb). For reasons beyond my will, I had to stop the test flights that was doing and only now I am planning to return to the activity. For this reason I do not have a definitive idea of the performance of my plane – just some preliminary information. My propeller uses Warpdrive blades of 70 inches and was adjusted on all flights at 13 degrees at the tip, limiting the maximum engine rotation in 5000 / 5100 RPM. In these conditions, operating at 2000 ft above sea level, I obtain 600 / 700 ft/min with one person on board and 60 / 65 MPH indicated, with zero flap and half tank. With the propeller set to this value (13 degrees) I obtain a cruising speed of 70 / 75 MPH indicated to 4200 RPM. The next flights I'll adjust my propeller at 11.5 degrees (about 5400 RPM max). I want to improve the rate of climb because the engine may have more power.

Regards,

Paulo Anders

Thanks! I give a lot of credit to my young eagles pilot who has taught me the process.

thanks

those batery seem to be what works for every one so i will grab one this weekend and moun it in GHWA

thanks jim

thanks norm

its getting there, hopefuly i will have some flying vidio soon and maybe some interior pictures to share

talk soon

At Boydwelding.com go to the "request a quote" tab at the top and give them the dimensions of the tank you want.  I'm still gathering ideas for the beanie mod, but am convinced it's a necessary item.

The beanie looks great (as well as the entire plane), it also makes a big difference; the plane flies better and the extra headroom makes the plane feel much bigger! After getting used to the new appearance and interior one starts to wonder if the roof really had been so low...

A reply to your comment: 6 feet 2... hmm I thought Canada went for the metric units for some 30 years ago :)   I'm 188cm with most of it in my legs.. so the leg room is always a problem.

In my opinion the round roof to would not increase the complexity of the design that much. A pair of ribs but other than that flexing the single piece windshield over the roof top is much easier if the roof is round.  

The Super Beanie Mod would be full size wing ribs on the sides of the cabin to allow a full  airfoil over the cabin!! Further, a new frame for the windshield could be introduced to make it steeper to match with the airfoil over the cabin. Someone could call that the Savannah mod... But 1,5 meters of airfoil over the cabin would sure make a difference.

an other reply: well...I can do the conversion between imperial and metric but can't stop wondering why they still use fingers, toothpicks, feet and the arms to measure length as there is an easier way to go as we all know ;)

After doing the beanie mod we put "camping mattress" type of material on the ribs and the roof (inside) and it really blocked the oilcanning sound the cockpit is reasonably quiet and roomy now! The color of the material is dark gray so it fits very well. I cut large openings in the ribs to add stiffness and reduce weight but it opened up a channel inside the wing bringing in all the noise and oilcanning from the wing. The lightweight matt on the rib blocked this completely.

About staying warm: 

In March i flew to a Fly-In, 300km south of our base. In the morning when I left home I thought it's a bit chilly out there... At the airfield the car's thermometer displayed -27C...   :)

Anyway, I decided to go and no regrets, it was a great trip. The Block Heater on (as defined by Mr. B. McDonald) and warm gloves / boots. No problem as the Rotax provides more than enough heat in the cabin!