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Comment by David Buoy on September 19, 2018 at 9:56am

Selling UL Power engine, model 206i

Engine and firewall forward kit was purchased for a Zenith 701 home built. Have original invoice and additional pictures.
Engine has never been installed. It is currently stored in a hanger at Troutdale Airport (TTD). It has never been exposed  to the elements.

Original invoice and warranty available.

Engine - $16,500.00 (will pay up to $400.00 for shipping)
with Firewall forward kit (includes Cowling & Prop) - $18,000 (will pay up to $600.00 for shipping)

Comment by William McClain on August 30, 2018 at 2:35pm

I am nearly finished with my CH750 Cruzer, about 1 more week plus weight and balance. I have been in touch with my DAR and he will not let me fly out of my airport KRYY. Too much congestion around the airport. I got the last hanger space left in the state of Georgia to finish my project at KRYY. He says that I will have to disassemble the plane and have it trucked to a more remote field for my phase I test. The trouble is that there is no hanger space reasonably close and most airports will not allow a non flyable airplane tie down space and I will need a few days to re-assemble my plane. Next project will be a boat. Any legal ideas on what I could do?

Comment by Natalio s. Alfano on June 18, 2018 at 5:14pm

hello everyone I am building a stol 750 I made the mistake of drilling to 1/4 inch where would go 3/16 inch screws in the supports of the channel pickup my question is if you can replace screws by the following measurement.

Comment by David Krakowsky on September 28, 2017 at 12:05pm
Anyone do anything to even the tire wear
On a 601XL?
I flipped a tire once, too much trouble.
I’m thinking about shimming or washers to get
The camber straighter.
My toe in looks right.
Comment by gabriel dellaventura on September 13, 2017 at 7:35pm
Hi Dave. Great looking plane. Congratulations on a job well done! I meet you at the Maine fly in last week. Gabe.
Comment by roger trombley on September 3, 2017 at 11:12am

Vans makes a manifold that mounts on fire wall,then use steel branded line to go from manifold to engine. Race car shops have steel hoses made up in size _3 or _4 hoses  in different lenghts

Comment by Gil DeVault on July 24, 2017 at 1:11pm

I am building an XL 601 B. My engine is an 0-235 C1B. For engine gauges I have bought a set of Van's gauges and transducers for the oil temp, oil pressure, oil pressure switch for the hobbs meter, tac, and fuel pressure for use on an MA3 carb.  The oil temp just screws into where the bulb type sender would have gone, and the tack transducer just screws in where the mechanical tac cable would have gone. My question is how best to mount the oil pressure switch and oil pressure and fuel pressure transducers. also the fitting for the input to the carb, should that fitting use an "O" ring? Any help, photos appreciated. I know most of this could be mounted directly to the engine, but I'm concerned about vibrations.

Comment by William McClain on March 26, 2017 at 8:54pm

I am nearly finished with the horizontal stabilizer/elevator and I find a small baggie with 5 AS-5 rivets. After a bit of research I find that these are steel rivets. No where in the instruction or the helpless videos that wasted $45 on say any thing about these rivets. Up on further research in the drawings I find where these rivets go. Now I am faced with drilling out the A5 rivets and leaving the back nubs inside the elevator to rattle around and putting the AS5 rivets in their place. I don't find this guessing game amusing and I question the quality of the instructions provided.

Comment by Bill Reid on March 20, 2017 at 8:29pm
I've noticed several projects for sale here - some close some far. I've been transporting aircraft for lots of years. I have sereval years with a variety of trucks and trailers. My 36 ft. Flatbed with GMC will haul everything up to medium twins with ease -$1.50 a mile loaded -- Buck a mile empty .
Comment by Gil DeVault on March 6, 2017 at 7:42am

I'm going with the old school mostly, but I thought I would use my ipad mini and FtPlan go backed up by my smart phone with A-efis and Avare. I haven't found a transponder yet, but plan to go with Nav Worx ADS 600 EXP, and I ordered the MGL V6 transceiver. I had made up my mind to buy Dynon 8" EFIS, for 3K but then read more and found out you have to spend another K on a box for it, so I said to heck with it. I also looked at the Talos for $600, and use a tablet, but they wanted almost 30 dollars to mail from Florida, when you can have one shipped from Greece for eight dollars! I think I would be happier with just a dual VOR, compass and the standard 6 pack, but I guess I need to expand my comfort zone with the times.

Comment by David Banahan on February 25, 2017 at 2:43pm


Like you I'm older and what I chose is full analog.  I put in Auto Meter,(Made in USA) engine instruments from Summitt Racing.  I chose UMA, (Made in USA) flight instruments except for altimeter because I need two needles.

I found used a Garmin (likely designed in USA and made elsewhere) 250XL(comm and GPS) and Garmin GTX 327 transponder both without wiring harnesses.

I'm far from done and I think I can finish the panel for around $2000-$2500.  I also fly daytime, VFR class D and below airspace and see little benefit to spending 4-6 times as much.

Comment by Gil DeVault on February 25, 2017 at 1:14pm

I'm old, learned to fly with VOR's and ADF. Now I'm at the stage of laying out my panel for my XL 601B. The EFIS is totally new to me, never actually seen one other than you tube. I'm not even sure about air spaces any more, but plan to take some ground school to catch up on that. What I don't want to do is invest a lot of money in something that doesn't give me the best bang for the buck, but I really don't know what to look for. Don't mind spending the money, but I don't want a panel I have trouble reading, or something I need a degree to understand. Will fly only as a Day Time VFR. Thanks   Gil

Comment by William McClain on February 19, 2017 at 6:40pm

I wish I could provide pictures but I have not received my first shipment of parts and tools. When using CLECOs one usually has a box of CLECOs which he/she would grab and hold the CLECO pliers in the other hand  while hold the pliers in the other hand they would grab the CLECO with the pliers prior to inserting into drilled hole. This is a two handed operation. To simplify the operation and free up one hand, I was instructed to: use a scrap piece og 2X4 wood and drill several 5/16" holes in the wood. line up the CLECOs that you will use in the holes. Now you only need to grab the CLECO with the pliers, squeeze and insert, a one handed process. Once I get things set up I will try to provide pictures.



Comment by Ray Toews on February 18, 2017 at 11:45pm
Can you clearer on that. Maybe a picture. Thanks
Comment by William McClain on February 18, 2017 at 6:15pm

Joined local EAA 268 last night. First night I got a good tip. Take a short length of 2X4 and drill several holes slightly larger that a CLECO in it. Put the CLECOs that you will need next into the holes. When trying to hold 2 or 3 pieces of metal together while tying to load a CLECO will make the job much easier.

Comment by Chet Lundy on February 12, 2017 at 11:11am

Flap motor in, flap weldmets in (not drilled) have to build wings first. Aileron stops installed. Re-install baggage floor next.

Comment by William McClain on February 11, 2017 at 7:57pm

Does anyone know if the 750 Cruzer can be flown with the doors removed?


Comment by Chet Lundy on December 27, 2016 at 5:29pm

What rivet pitch should be used for 65c3-9 rear canopy fairing to attach to turtle deck skin?

Comment by Ray Toews on August 28, 2016 at 1:05am

If you are scratch building a 601 I have a center section spar factory built.

$50 and you pay shipping from T0H 1N0

call or text seven 8 oh nine two six 7298

Comment by Lance Gobeil on August 24, 2016 at 11:52pm


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