Carlos Sa
  • Dollard-des-Ormeaux, QC
  • Canada
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Carlos Sa's Discussions

interference: throttle cable and idle screw

Started this discussion. Last reply by Carlos Sa Aug 6, 2022. 6 Replies

cabin air heater

Started this discussion. Last reply by John Austin Jan 22, 2023. 7 Replies

air ducts

Started this discussion. Last reply by Carlos Sa Aug 9, 2020. 2 Replies


Carlos Sa's Page

Latest Activity

Carlos Sa posted photos
Jun 1
Carlos Sa posted a photo

throttle arm x set idle screw

Throttle end piece hits the idle set screw before the throttle arm reaches the full throttle position.The arm extender is not an option as this is a dual-throttle configuration.
Aug 5, 2022
Carlos Sa posted a discussion

interference: throttle cable and idle screw

Hello,I posted this on the jabcamit forum, but thought I'd post here too, just in case...I'm installing a 4th gen 3300 on a CH601-HD.Question regarding throttle cable: in my case, the cable end is interfering with the idle screw.Is this normal? I suppose I should (?) adjust the cable length, so its end won't touch the screw, but the installation manual does not touch the subject.I might be able to fix this by adding washers, so the hole for the cotter pin is closer to the throttle arm, but I…See More
Jul 31, 2022
Carlos Sa posted a photo

cowl fixes

After a lot of work, this is what the cowl looks like.The last, and unexpected glass work involved thickening the top cowl edges - otherwise, the studs would stick out between one and three millimetres.Getting shorter studs wouldn't help, as the…
Oct 26, 2021
Carlos Sa posted a photo

air bubble under gel coat

This spot cracked open while I was working on other areas of the bottom cowl (left).I repaired it with a mix of resin and filler (right).Thankfully it happened before any finishing work. The obvious question left unanswered (for now, at least) is:…
Sep 26, 2021
Carlos Sa posted photos
Sep 13, 2021
Carlos Sa posted photos
Sep 11, 2021
Carlos Sa posted a photo

Post-"surgery" / top cowl modification

After the resin cured overnight (six layers of 6 oz cloth applied), I used a dremel to remove the old material and expose the new.Ugly at the moment, but it worked.Lots of sanding in my future...
Aug 30, 2021

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Engine installed (or plan to install)
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Private Pilot
Building and Flying Info / Your Profession / Other Background Info
IT professional, retired (IBM Canada)
Electrical Engineer (P. Eng.)
Home Airport (ie. KMYJ)

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Carlos Sa's Blog

DIY avionics

Posted on February 8, 2015 at 8:29pm 1 Comment

The flight instruments (namely the artificial horizon) is now being driven by the MPU board (MPU9250 -> Arduino -> iMac).

Eventually all of this will be put together and run on a PCduino with its own screen.

More work to be done. Fun, but slow.

Here's a video:

(Too big for

Note: the colourful spaghetti of wires is a left…


Comment Wall (8 comments)

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At 8:50pm on August 29, 2016, Richard Simmons said…


I apologize on my delayed response. My kit was purchased in 2005. I wanted to use the rubber seals on my canopy arms to seal the arm covers to the instrument cover/side. So I cut the seal before I knew that particular seal was not made anymore. However, I had already fit the canopy with the original seal and Zenith had no more material available. Ultimately, I had enough for either the front or the rear. So, through phone calls and digging, the T-897 seal is what is being used now. It is 1/8 shorter vs the old seal.  I wound up making adjustments in the rear, lowering the canopy enough to make the T-897 seal work.

Have you already trimmed the canopy to the original seal? I wound up with some extra of the T-897 seal through all of it. If you need to try some of it, I can get it to you if need be.



46 hours and still smiling

At 7:57pm on June 26, 2015, Jerry Latimer said…


I received the Azusa tires from Aircraft Spruce.  I wouldn't use them!  The sidewalls and treads are way too thin.  I'm still using the Michelin S83's.  The construction of the Michelin is much more  rugged.  Even though the Azusa have the same load rating.


At 10:50am on March 3, 2014, Patrick Hoyt said…

Hi Carlos - that's actually not an access panel on my fwd top skin.  It's the cover for a BRS parachute, secured with A3 rivets.  I didn't do anything special to make it waterproof, but I have not had any issues with water coming in there.

- Pat

At 10:57am on March 27, 2010, Stephen R. Smith said…
Hi Carlos,

The music was “borrowed” from another video called Animusic. The website for the company is here. You can rent the DVD from Netflix.

At 11:53am on June 30, 2009, Don Honabach said…
Carlos -

I got the 11-06466 X-TREME LED PAIR from the link you sent. If I was only going to do one wing, I get the 2 of 2x2 LED Lights and point one low/one "high" for taxi/landing. However, I like having the 2x4 LED cluster though as the LED lights are bright but don't spread out as much as standard lights so having one on each wing is nice. It also looks better IMHO.

At 11:28am on June 30, 2009, Don Honabach said…
Carlos -

Here is link to download the picture archive:

It is fairly big ~300MB so it may take awhile to download. The link will remain active for about 7 days.

The landing lights are LEDs. I put them on both sides and love them! One is pointed a bit down for taxi and the other a bit up for landing. I can also put them in wig-wag mode which helps to be seen even during the day. They were expensive, but in the long run having a no maintenance light was worth it to me. I also was running low on my AMP budget in the plane. The Jabiru only generates around 20AMPs from the alternator and going with traditional landing/taxi lights would have put me in the negative/discharge battery area. I'll get you the brand info - don't remember off the top of my head.

I also went with LED position lights as well. I wanted to go with LED strobes but couldn't find anything that I could retrofit to my existing setup and still be happy with.

For the position lights, I went with the standard 12V LED Whelen Lights. Again, expensive, but it freed up around 4 AMPs. Each standard position light uses about 2 AMPs or about 5 to 6 AMPs total for all 3. The LED Position Lights draw about 1 AMP total for all 3. Combined with LED Landing Light(s) Reduced Draw and it is impossible for me to go in the negative draw area.

At 9:21pm on June 29, 2009, Don Honabach said…
Carlos -

Sorry for the late reply. I do have some pictures that aren't up on the website. Let me know if you are still interested and I'll archive them up and put them up on our site so you can download.

I'm hoping to update my site shortly with new pictures and so on. I just ran out of time to be with the family, run a business, build, AND maintain the site :).

I go to pick it up at the paint shop tomorrow. (I'm just not into painting!!!).

At 7:58pm on April 2, 2009, Bob McDonald said…

I did not build this 2005 CH601HD, I purchased it flying from Trevor Page who built is from a kit. It took him a little over 2 yrs to build. I basically cleaned up the engine install. The cowl is from CZAW and the only one I know of in Canada. The Rotax 912 has a 3.75" Saber prop extension to fit the cowl, this permits the inside cowl mount of the radiator and oil cooler.

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