Zenith Aircraft Builders and Flyers
Online Community of Zenith Builders and Flyers
-
sam hord
- Princeton, ID
- United States
- Blog Posts (1)
- Discussions (1)
- Events
- Groups
- Photos
- Photo Albums
- Videos
sam hord's Page
Profile Information
- Aircraft Model
- STOL CH 701
- Project Status
- Nearly done
- Building From
- Kit
- Engine installed (or plan to install)
- Subaru
- Building Experience
- No Experience
- Flying Experience
- Private Pilot
Sam hord's Blog
EA81
Posted on February 26, 2015 at 9:54pm 0 Comments 0 Likes
Anybody have any experience with a Real World Solutions efi in an EA81. It acts like it is not getting fuel. I've checked everything and I'm just about to give up.
New from Zenith:
Classified listing for buying or selling your Zenith building or flying related stuff...
Custom Instrument Panels
for your Zenith:
Custom instrument panels are now available directly from Zenith Aircraft Company exclusively for Zenith builders and owners. Pre-cut panel, Dynon and Garmin avionics, and more.
Zenith Homecoming Tee:
Flying On Your Own Wings:
A Complete Guide to Understanding Light Airplane Design, by Chris Heintz
Builder & Pilot Supplies:
Pro Builder Assistance:
Transition training:
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty for all your building and pilot supplies!
How to videos from HomebuiltHELP.com
Developed specifically for Zenith builders (by a builder) these videos on DVD are a great help in building your own kit plane by providing practical hands-on construction information. Visit HomebuiltHelp.com for the latest DVD titles.
© 2024 Created by Zenith.Aero.
Powered by
Comment Wall (4 comments)
You need to be a member of Zenith Aircraft Builders and Flyers to add comments!
Join Zenith Aircraft Builders and Flyers
Hi Sam,
my prop is a 3 blade 70inch Warpdrive (large paddle) set at 14.5 degrees. Angle is taken at 70% of the blade lenght - not at the tip. The tip is too small to make a good angle calculation...
Did you check the Radiator displacement versus your engine power ? My Subaru did overheat with my first Radiator... The RAD was way too small and it made the engine overheat...
Also, make sure there is enough room for HOT air to EXIT the cowling otherwise it will stay in there and heat will come up.
Finally, I do not use a thermostat in the glycol circuit, the engine warms quite well and stays in the GREEN at all times.
Got photos of your installation, maybe we'll see something you missed.
These engines set up properly are a joy to run...Yours should be too,
Regards,
Norm
Hi Sam,
Some more thouths:
1) my prop is a 3 blade 70inch Warpdrive (large paddle) set at 14.5 degrees. Angle is taken at 70% of the blade lenght - not at the tip. The tip is too small to make a good angle calculation...
2) my redrive is 2.32 to 1 ratio and my engine is turning 5200rpm at WOT which is 2250rpm at the prop. I used to run the engine at 5600rpm (lower blade angle) but wasn't getting all the speed I could at level flight.
3) What is your reduciton (beltdrive) ? 2to1, 2.5to1, 2.3to1 ? If your prop turns too fast it is not helping your engine to cool off.
4) Did you do a PULL TEST ??? Mine showed between 420-450 pounds of thrust static which place the engine at the same HP level as a 912ULS. I'm asking this because if you overrev the engine you may not load it enough.
So,
1) check fuel delivery (mixture needle) at high speed may not deliver enough fuel to the engine causing overheating. Fuel quality (90octane+)
2) Glycol radiator installation : large enough rad, large enough EXIT area, glycol quality, NO THERMOSTAT and NO AIR in the system. Air should be PULLED out of the cowling from the rear so that cold air can get IN from the front.
Get photos and show us what you got.
Regards,
Norm
Thanks for the infos, obviously it helps to diagnose a problem if we get all the parameters... From what you told us :
1) I would seriously consider changing the oil to 20W50 full synthetic oil to keep internal temp as low as possible.
2) make sure your rad is large enough; see my blog post How to calculate glycol radiator for your engine on this website. I used that calculation and it turned out OK
3) how is your fuel system built from the fuel tanls to your engine ???
4) you mention the Aerovee carb, are you using the right needle ?
Mine came with 3-4 different needles - maybe the one installed is not sending enougn fuel to your engine...
5) air goes thru your rad to cool off the glycol, what about EXIT for the hot air ? Exit area should be 1.5 larger than the entry. Also, air should be forced out - pulled ´
6) what type of gearbox - reduction, propellor, engine speeds are you looking at ?
7) what blade angle ?
Photos of installation would also help...
I got no clue about your setup so I wont comment on it.
I can however tell you what I did :
1) NO thermostat : they tend to open too late and respond too slowly to quick temp changes
2) No glycol mixture, ALWAYS PURE.
3) add an oil cooler so both the glycol AND the oil will keep the engine
running cool
4) use only FULL SYNTHETIC OIL 20W50 grade.
5) use best OIL FILTER (race car) type you can find
6) use only SUPER UNLEADED (90+) grade
7) make sure your glycol radiator is large enough and is double row stacked. Should be race car grade. Mine was made to my specifications - not more expensive than a 912ULS radiator and very effective
8) make sure your EFI is getting the FUEL PRESSURE recommended - fule restriction will cause overheating problems...
That's all I can think for now.
Let me know gow this turns out.
Also, would be a GREAT IDEA to give out details of your installation that way we could help you better.
Finally, my installation is running at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) for extended periods and never. experienced overheating. Also ran the Soob on 90F+ days for extended periods without any problems...So, It can be done.
Regards,
Norm
CH701 C-GFEU