Thanks for your thoughts and encouragement. The ideal door for myself would be a Super Cub type that would allow upper half to be folded up on warm days but ZAC has really impressed me with their bubble window which probably wouldn't work as well as a flat window if folded up below the wing.
Brian
At 12:24pm on November 17, 2011, Bob McDonald said…
Norm
No problem doing type training on my CH750. My charge is presently $30 / hr to cover fuel. I work 12 shift (3 days / week). Phone me to check on availability as I have commitments to CH750 test flight & type training this month in Kitchener at Can-Zac. I live 1 hr drive north of Ottawa on hwy #17. 613-432-8496 :>) Bob
No real unusual suprises. I was suprised how little stick input you need to manuever.
How amazing the climb is on take off.
The Visibility in flight.
Flew awesome with the doors off, no perceived extra drag and was amazingly fun.
Durability: Very tough airplane- I replaced a hollow nosewheel axel at around 50 hours, the new one is solid. Might want to ask Zenith for this if you have the old one. New one is from 750. I did wheelbarrow my old one down the runway a couple times till I got my landings down.
Merci du commentaire. Je prévois utiliser un réservoir d'essence sous l'appareil "belly tank". Centre de gravité plus bas et ailes repliables plus légertes à manipuler. Tu mentionnes CH701SP. SP sport pilot?. Lorsque j'ai commandé mon plan en juin dernier, je n'ai pas remarqué ce détail.
Thanks for the tip re change-over from floats to wheels. I think I will fashion a similar plate an just leave it permanently installed on both forward wing attach bolts.
HI Norm, I have not gone through all the paperwork looking for how the previous owner did the weight and balance but I will go looking. Will get some photos to you soon. Phil
Hi mate, had a look at your plane on your site, it looks great. I purchased my plane from a deceased estate and it is not far off flying. The plane is very standard and I would like to keep it that way. Will put some photos on the site soon, but am not that good on the computer. Had the motor running today for the first time and am pretty happy about that. Heading to the shed now to makeup the flaparon covers.
I used epoxy primer surfacer. Make sure that you lay it on wet enough for it to dry out completely flat so that just a light rub with a scourer is required when it is hard. My epoxy primer was designed to be able to have the topcoat applied directly over it without scouring after 30 minutes (wet on wet), but if you don't smoothen it up, it effects the final finnish. Your finnish will only look as good as your primer.
My topcoat is a polyurethane enamel 2 pack epoxy high solids, high opacity paint. I thin to its maximum capacity so that I am putting on the least amount of paint possible. Don't use more reducer than specified because the surface of the paint will dry before the reducer has evaporated and the next day you will see tiny pin pricks in your paint called solvent pop. The instructions for these paints are usually very accurate.
Thanks for your comments on my painting photo. I am painting using a gravity feed spray gun. If I was going to buy another new gun, I would definately buy a gravity feed HVLP instead. These HVLP guns put out a lot less overspray dust so they use less paint. My paint booth is simply an area of 10' x 20' with ropes around the perimeter and criss crossing for which I drape plastic drop sheets over the top. I also drape drop sheets around all sides. I have a fan blowing the overspray out a hole in the plastic to outside. I am finding that my fan is not sufficient to evacuate the booth quick enough but it is better than nothing. I am going to add a filter paper to one wall for the fan to draw through for more flow. If you are going to use 2 pack paints, make sure that you get yourself a good mask that filters the gasses and organics from the air you are breathing or better still, buy a positve pressure spray painters face mask and pump for $1000 or so. I use a mask that I purchased from the same place that I bought the paint and is designed for the job. Also wear the mask even when you are mixing the paint or anytime you are anywhere near wet paint. Sorry to ramble on about the mask side of things but if you don't wear the right gear, you will get pretty sick from this stuff. Also wear a full disposible paper suit with hood and goggles if you can find some that don't fogg up on you.
Phone Bob Stuart and ask him about paperwork. 613-432-2075.
If Homebuilt he was just through the process... if AULA the you need Fit For flight Form and..Statement of Conformity. Only kit built CH701 can be AULA.
That's great Normand. Anxious to hear how the inspection goes.
I don't know for a fact but through a friend of mine that the corrosion protection in Canada on Homebuilts have to be on the whole area not only the mating(touching) parts?
I already have all my tail section and flaps and slats done. I followed what most were saying about corrosion proctection but sure hope i don't have to redo the corrosion protection on all those parts -:)
Keep us updated...it sure helps the builders that follows.
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Normand Lambert's Comments
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Hi Normand:
Re: Door Hinges
Thanks for your thoughts and encouragement. The ideal door for myself would be a Super Cub type that would allow upper half to be folded up on warm days but ZAC has really impressed me with their bubble window which probably wouldn't work as well as a flat window if folded up below the wing.
Brian
Norm
No problem doing type training on my CH750. My charge is presently $30 / hr to cover fuel. I work 12 shift (3 days / week). Phone me to check on availability as I have commitments to CH750 test flight & type training this month in Kitchener at Can-Zac. I live 1 hr drive north of Ottawa on hwy #17. 613-432-8496 :>) Bob
No real unusual suprises. I was suprised how little stick input you need to manuever.
How amazing the climb is on take off.
The Visibility in flight.
Flew awesome with the doors off, no perceived extra drag and was amazingly fun.
Durability: Very tough airplane- I replaced a hollow nosewheel axel at around 50 hours, the new one is solid. Might want to ask Zenith for this if you have the old one. New one is from 750. I did wheelbarrow my old one down the runway a couple times till I got my landings down.
Brian
Wow, she looks awesome! You are gonna have alot of fun!
That's where I fly from in lachute. I'm there almost every saturday with Jean Francois Blanchette at the Avitas flight school.
Merci du commentaire. Je prévois utiliser un réservoir d'essence sous l'appareil "belly tank". Centre de gravité plus bas et ailes repliables plus légertes à manipuler. Tu mentionnes CH701SP. SP sport pilot?. Lorsque j'ai commandé mon plan en juin dernier, je n'ai pas remarqué ce détail.
Éric B
Norm,
Thanks for the vote of confidence in my dual stick setup! I was thinking of making both sticks removable for maintenance access under the panel.
Steve Winn
Normand!
I think you were not wearing your respirator again...watch those fumes! it's not a bird...it's a wolf -:)
Hi again, Norm,
Do you remove the nose gear and strut when you convert to floats or just remove the fork and wheel and leave the strut in place?
Bill Bear
Hi Norm,
Thanks for the tip re change-over from floats to wheels. I think I will fashion a similar plate an just leave it permanently installed on both forward wing attach bolts.
Bill
Hi Norm, thanks . Perhaps you can tell me what exactly type you have, what force, speed, movement.
Are you satisfacted whit it. How many position you have, how you now in which position you have flaps?
Are you fly whit negative position?
Thanks!
Uros
Part 2
I used epoxy primer surfacer. Make sure that you lay it on wet enough for it to dry out completely flat so that just a light rub with a scourer is required when it is hard. My epoxy primer was designed to be able to have the topcoat applied directly over it without scouring after 30 minutes (wet on wet), but if you don't smoothen it up, it effects the final finnish. Your finnish will only look as good as your primer.
My topcoat is a polyurethane enamel 2 pack epoxy high solids, high opacity paint. I thin to its maximum capacity so that I am putting on the least amount of paint possible. Don't use more reducer than specified because the surface of the paint will dry before the reducer has evaporated and the next day you will see tiny pin pricks in your paint called solvent pop. The instructions for these paints are usually very accurate.
I hope this helps you a bit.
Phill
Part 1 2000 character limit
Hi Normand
Thanks for your comments on my painting photo. I am painting using a gravity feed spray gun. If I was going to buy another new gun, I would definately buy a gravity feed HVLP instead. These HVLP guns put out a lot less overspray dust so they use less paint. My paint booth is simply an area of 10' x 20' with ropes around the perimeter and criss crossing for which I drape plastic drop sheets over the top. I also drape drop sheets around all sides. I have a fan blowing the overspray out a hole in the plastic to outside. I am finding that my fan is not sufficient to evacuate the booth quick enough but it is better than nothing. I am going to add a filter paper to one wall for the fan to draw through for more flow. If you are going to use 2 pack paints, make sure that you get yourself a good mask that filters the gasses and organics from the air you are breathing or better still, buy a positve pressure spray painters face mask and pump for $1000 or so. I use a mask that I purchased from the same place that I bought the paint and is designed for the job. Also wear the mask even when you are mixing the paint or anytime you are anywhere near wet paint. Sorry to ramble on about the mask side of things but if you don't wear the right gear, you will get pretty sick from this stuff. Also wear a full disposible paper suit with hood and goggles if you can find some that don't fogg up on you.
Normand,
Are you building as an ultralight for max gross weight of 1232lbs?
If you are building as amateur home built, you need pre-cover inspection and then a last inspection when all is ready for flight.
Where are you in the inspection process? have you had inspections yet?
Good luck..
Andre
Norm
Phone Bob Stuart and ask him about paperwork. 613-432-2075.
If Homebuilt he was just through the process... if AULA the you need Fit For flight Form and..Statement of Conformity. Only kit built CH701 can be AULA.
That's great Normand. Anxious to hear how the inspection goes.
I don't know for a fact but through a friend of mine that the corrosion protection in Canada on Homebuilts have to be on the whole area not only the mating(touching) parts?
I already have all my tail section and flaps and slats done. I followed what most were saying about corrosion proctection but sure hope i don't have to redo the corrosion protection on all those parts -:)
Keep us updated...it sure helps the builders that follows.
Andre
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