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I`m scratch building a CH-640
I`ve not seen the other plans from the other models so I don't know if this applies to all
In the plans the wing shape is shown as a graph with some points of reference.
My concern is the front of the wing where there appears to be room for user error. I have a flexible ruler and I`m not sure where to position it to start the nose tip. Do I put the ruler straight up and down on the wing tip(front) then bend it to the next data point.
I was considering buying a front and rear nose rib from the factory to make sure I don't mess this up and just copy the wing shape from that.
What have you guys done form this.
Thanks
Michael In Toronto
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I used a technique I learned in the boat building business. Get some 6d finish nails and a drill the same size as the nails. drill holes for the nails at the intersection points just outside the line. insert the nails in the holes. Find a piece of flexible metal. Old band saw blade, banding material. and bend it around the nails. this should give you a nice curve all around the points. Draw the curve with a pencil along the band and cut out your form. have both blocks screwed together when you cut them so they are identical. Good luck.
Pat
Welcome to the fun world of scratch building! :) I am scratch building a 650. For the 650 plans, there are reference datums defined in the plans for the front and rear ribs. For the rear rib, (0,0) is off the part. For the front rib there should a be a nose radius specified. You would want the graph specifed part to intersect the nose radius at a tangent.
If you have not done so, I would recommend getting a copy of homebuilt helps scratch building basics. I will also point you to a video I made that on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NUe5m02W5w that covers some of the layout techniques I developed that you might find useful. Of course there are a ton of others on youtube and on my channel.
Another hint I will add. When you do the layout for the ribs, do not layout directly on the plywood. Do your layout on some .025 or .016. Once you get that right, use it as a template for your plywood form.
Good luck.
In connecting the datum points a flexible ruler on edge will workfine or a drafting "gumby" allows you to form a smooth transition all the way around the nose. As long as it is a smooth curve and hits all the points it will be fine. Don't overthink it as lots of people have been able to do this before you. Dan.
Make a CAD drawing and take it to Kinko's. Measure a few points before you leave to make sure they didn't scale it. Sparingly use spray glue to "wallpaper" the printout onto your plywood. Small parts can be printed out on a regular laser printer. Use ledger or legal sized paper to get larger than 8x11.
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