This blog is for all helpful information regarding install, operation, preventative and general maintaining, upgrades and any information to assist our engines to be the best that they can be.
Please ask any questions directly to the person who posted the info but please post any new info arrising from your discussions. This request is designed purely to make it easier to browse information without having to wade through general discussion.

So guys, please post away and lets help each other.

Phill Barnes

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Comment by Mike Schlichtman on December 12, 2009 at 7:58am
I also recieved a box via UPS from Dana at JabUSA with what looks like a muffler. I think it was called "pusher muffler assemble". It has two small pipes with holes drilled all in one end with the top sealed and one other larger pipe with two welde holes the it looks like the pipes fint into with spring attach brackets. The rub is, I did not order this nor do I know where I would put it. the cost was right at $700 and I am thinking she charged my CC on file. I guess I will give Dana a call Monday, but in the meantime, just wondering what it could be for.
Comment by Mike Schlichtman on December 12, 2009 at 7:52am
Can someone explain how the igniton system works as it relates to the coils. The instructions say to hook wires up to the coils from starter switch for ground. this is how you test each mag and kill the enine (by grounding the coils)....I got all that. But where I get confused is that if you do a continuity test on the coils, they are already ground to the engine block. The only thing I can think of is that when the engine is running, there is a switch that opens up braking the connection from ground to the coils. Also, there is welded on screw hole bracket right above the fly wheel on top....what is that for?
Comment by Stephen R. Smith on November 3, 2009 at 4:08pm
I am using a straight 9 inch extension I got from Walmart. I have it installed as far down on the pipe as I can with an extra screw for safety. My 9 inch extension is working for sure. My 7 inch diagonal cut one did not.

Comment by Stephen R. Smith on October 26, 2009 at 10:16pm
My local EAA chapter has arranged for members to get oil at the local oil distributor at a discount, so I cant be of much help there. A Google search would seem to be in order. The shipping can be a drag...

I got my oil drain valve from AircraftSpruce part number is 05-03540 - $79.95

Comment by John Partridge on October 25, 2009 at 6:46pm
This isn't a tip but a request for information. I have just fitted the cowling for my Jab 3300. It is one of the older styles with the nice "smiley face" opening for the oil cooler. Iam trying to fit the ram air ducts but it has become problematic. Especially around the front right hand cylinder where the cowl comes very close to the engine. If anybody has a photo of the ram air cuct fit in the region I'd sure appreciate some info.
I also realise that I am going to have to modify the cowl to imptrove the cooling for the oil cooler.
Thanks guys.
Comment by Stephen R. Smith on October 17, 2009 at 1:02pm

My credit card was billed for $776.99 about 3 weeks prior to shipment. Also, I will need 2 to 3 new cables. I am expecting this to take several days to install.

Comment by Stephen R. Smith on October 17, 2009 at 11:44am

Do you think the Form would be a better format for this information site? The blog is a bit too linear.

Comment by Stephen R. Smith on October 17, 2009 at 11:42am
My Rotec TBI-40-S has finally shipped from the factory. It will be here about October 20th. I prefer the Rotec design over the AeroCarb because the Rotec comes with a smart pressure regulator which will allow me to use my existing fuel pumps. I will report performance information when available.

Comment by Paul Hammond on October 16, 2009 at 9:29pm
cold starting ? back the ute (pick up) near the nose connect 2-3 inch pipe over exhaust point it under cowl near carb and leave engine high idlefor 5 minutes ordo pre flight checks hop in it starts easy
Comment by Phill Barnes on October 16, 2009 at 6:46pm
For those with engines sagging on the rubber engine mounts, Stephen Smith had a link in one of his blogs to Sonex that makes stiffer ones.

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