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Permalink Reply by Christopher Nail on December 3, 2011 at 8:43pm

I'm curious to know the same thing. I asked a similar question in. Post on here a few weeks ago; never got an answer. The home built help video says to wire the yellow and red together. I think I'll have the yellow come off the bus and the red to the master soleinoid.

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Permalink Reply by John Austin on December 3, 2011 at 9:47pm

I think it matters little if you connect directly to the battery or the bus - what I'm confused about is whether is necessary or best practice to fuse the yellow/alternator control wire? The 3300 engine installation manual doesn't show a fuse or breaker. Composite Design supplied a wiring diagram for the 3300 showing it attached to the "Accsy" terminal on their Power Panel, which is breakered. I've made inquiries to both Wayne at Composite Design and Jabiru USA - I'll see what the consensus is and report.

The Jabiru Installation Manual diagram also shows the starter switch unbreakered or unfused. Virtually every wiring diagram I've come across for other applications shows it on a protected circuit - I "think" it can momentarily pull about 3 amps.

Major Red Letter day today! I hooked up the battery for the first time (starter cable detached) - Everything powered up fine and no "Magic Smoke" LOL! The EIS read out all my CHT's and EGT's, Oil Temp sensor and OAT all showed the garage was about 55 degrees today The flap motor works and the trim LED's light up (trim motor yet to be connected for testing). So, wiring's about finished and no troubleshooting to do so far!

John

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Permalink Reply by David Gallagher on December 5, 2011 at 10:33am

I followed what I believe are good practices out of the Bob Nuckolls Aeroelectric guides and I have both circuits on either a breaker or fuse.  Just for giggles, my overall wiring diagram is attached showing these ciruits.  It has served me well for over 200 flying hours now in my Jabiru powered 601XL.

 

Good luck

Attachments:

• My Drawing_01.pdf, 70 KB

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Permalink Reply by John Austin on December 5, 2011 at 10:55am

I "think" some of the confusion may have come in because Jabiru USA recommends running the alternator control wire directly to the battery, which would be a short run forward of the firewall. Since I brought the wire to the power panel's bus behind the firewall, I think it only makes good sense to breaker it (and the starter switch as well!).

Thanks for your info!

Regards,

John

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Permalink Reply by John Austin on December 7, 2011 at 3:54pm

A little follow-up ... Today I talked to Pete at Jabiru USA. He said that now they actually do NOT recommend running the alternator control wire directly to the battery. If directly wired to the battery, the voltage regulator will draw a very small current even when everything else is shut down, which will eventually deplete the battery if the plane sits idle for a long time.

He said it was "fine" to route the wire through an alternator switch found on a  typical split-master switch, or, at least route the wire to the main bus since that will not be energized when the master contactor is off.

As to whether to fuse it or not, he said the current on the wire is very minimal, so it doesn't have to be fused/breakered, but it is OK if you wish to do so. About the only caveat he gave was NOT to put the wire on an ammeter shunt, as this will cause problems for the voltage regulator.

John

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Permalink Reply by Christopher Nail on June 5, 2012 at 7:49am

Any thoughts on the following setup on the vr wires: red connector to main bus side of ammeter shunt, yellow to either battery (understand the slow drain involved with that) or bus side of master solenoid (across other side of ammeter)?

My main thought/question is how the battery gets charged with the yellow/red butted together anywhere but near the battery.

Or should I just go red/yellow together at main buss side ammeter.

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Permalink Reply by David Gallagher on June 5, 2012 at 8:07am

Chris,

 

I cannot comment on your proposed placement of the red and yellow VR wires other than to say that Nuckolls's Z-16 diagram works.  I have a version of Z16 modified to my situation, but my red and yellow wires VR are just as they are on Z-16.  They are butted together coming right out of the voltage regulator to a point upstream of any of the places you mentioned.  The battery charges just fine.

 

Just remember to keep the smoke inside the wires,

 

Dave

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