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Do you have any buddies with a tilt and load wrecker? Maybe use your AAA Membership to deliver it ;>)
Use a ratcheting belt to pull the wheels together when loading then release. Is there a trailer manufacture in your present area that supplies trailers to a dealer in the area that you are moving to? Couple of ideas - offer to deliver the trailer for nothing or purchase a trailer with an agreement with the dealer at your destination to purchase it once your move is completed, at no loss to you. Below is how I moved my bird several hundred miles between Idaho and California. Mack
When trailering my 750's fuselage for painting, my painter just happened to have a tilt-bed utility trailer. The 750's wheels rested perilously close to the edges of the flat bed, and I was afraid a healthy bounce might let one slip off the side. Rather than find a wider trailer, we simply put a 2" x 12" board across the trailer floor and let it protrude over the sides a safe amount and screwed it down to the trailer with deck screws. This was put up against the aft portion of the trailer's dual wheel fenders and the 750's wheels were thus resting against the fenders and on the board and were strapped down. Worked great!
Hi Chris,
When I moved my CH701 to the airpost hangar, we had the plane main gear leaf rest against the trailer bed because the trailer wasn't wide enough. The main wheels were hanging outside the trailer bed from both sides.
You can take the main wheels off your plane once it is loaded on the trailer...
I took the stab and rudder off the plane before moving it. Undo 6 screws and better safe than sorry !
Your call.
Regards,
Norm
In the early 2000-2004 building a 701, I moved it several times: paint shop, back to hangar, later to house for SP mods. 2010-current, moved 601 to building shop for "B" mods, then to paint shop, back to garage, to finish. I also transported another E.A.B. from Iowa - Wyo., 1,000 mi., leaving the tails on all 3 examples. I am familiar w/the tire-wheel width issues. I never used a tilt bed, but 6' alum. motorcycle ramps 12x, w/no side effects. A gooseneck trailer is the best. a) rides the best, b) wheels under the trailer w/no fenders, such as on a car transport trailer to deal with, c) width is excellent; the tires & wheels will be along the metal railing edge of the trailer, d) position the 6.00's, pushing the 650 so the tires are = to the stake pockets. e) cut (2) 1' 2x4's - you will have to mider/narrow the ends slightly. Then hammer them down into the stake pockets. This will f) prevent the tires from bouncing off the trailer, as you will ratchet them around from there firmly to the tires & wheels to the stake pockets, after you have g) used 3 wheel chocks. Yellow plastic ones. Pound them front & back on ea. tire-tightly-then use (4) 1" or 1 1/2" wood screws, drilling 2 in front/ 2 in back of ea. chock into the trailer floor, right through the plastic chocks. Run a come-along up front, w/a nylon choker around the front wheel or strut to the front of the trailer, looping once. I use 2 ratchets on the tail, ea. @ a 45 deg. angle over ea. side of the trailer stake pockets. I've never taken the tail off. In 2010 I transported a 601XL from Wyo. to near Oshkosh, aside from the Iowa-Wyo., & other trips mentioned. Yes-you may need to swap-out or borrow a P.U. w/a gooseneck hitch.
When I had to move an experimental I bought, I hired a tilt bed wrecker. For a ten hour drive that would be a bit much. Could you maybe rent one? My plane had an 8 foot wheelbase and it barely fit on the truck. You may also be able to rent a Uhaul big enough to put it inside but it would be tight. Whatever you do make sure it is well secured.
Addendum to previous post. Belleview, Neb., yes S. edge of Omaha. 10 hr. trip-where is your destination?
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