Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by John Austin on April 6, 2018 at 7:39am

Hi Jim,

I took a look at your panel in one of your photos on your Member's page and it looks identical to the Composite Design "Light Sport" power panel.  Spruce has this panel on their website with a photo of the top of the panel:

This board is labeled "LSP01R0" and I suspect it is the same panel you have with the "Z" preceding the model number for "Zenith." Take a look and see if it matches up with your panel. (If you click on the above picture, you can click again and enlarge the photo.)  If not, I'm sure Wayne Lanza at Composite Design could come up with a diagram for you.

John

N750A

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Permalink Reply by James R Depfer Sr. on April 6, 2018 at 10:12am

John,

That's exactly what I need. 

Thanks,

                Jim

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Permalink Reply by James Stranks on November 6, 2018 at 1:58pm

Jim,

I just purchased a set of 750 STOL plans from Zenair in Canada. I am a plans builder. My plans show the rear fuselage longerons as a proprietary extrusion. Does your plan have a different specification for this part?

Jim Stranks

75-10952

Ontario Canada

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Permalink Reply by James R Depfer Sr. on November 6, 2018 at 3:19pm

James,

Not sure if you meant to send me your question. If you did, could you list the part number of the longeron you are interested in ? Also, what is the page number that lists the part as proprietary.

Jim

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Permalink Reply by James Stranks on November 6, 2018 at 4:04pm

I did. The part # is75F2-2, there are 4 pc of rear fuselage longerons. The drawing is page 75 F 2.

The extrusion is not listed as proprietary, I discovered this from Michael Heintz at Zenair. The cross section shows a radius corner with

2 structural flanges and 2 attachment flanges.

Jim Stranks

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Permalink Reply by James R Depfer Sr. on November 7, 2018 at 9:11am

Hello James,

The plans I have do not have any notes about the part being proprietary (revision 2 drawings). Although I'm not a plans builder, I would say this is a good part to purchase from Zenith. From the drawing its a little difficult to see, but if you look at the vertical edge of the part where the tit is right, you can see on the left side of the vertical edge right as the curve starts, it is recessed slightly. Your aluminum sides fit against this recessed edge and makes for a nice smooth edge at the side/bottom, or side /top of the fuselage. If you order the part it is all one piece. The flanges aren't visibly attached pieces.  If you are asking about the part for plans building direction or help, I'm not the person to ask. If that is the reason for your question, I would start a new discussion and as the topic put , "Plans building question" ------

Jim

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Permalink Reply by James Stranks on November 7, 2018 at 9:57am

Thanks for the help.

Jim Stranks

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Permalink Reply by Samuel McNair on November 8, 2018 at 7:14pm

This is not about the Design Power Panel Specifically. But you mention having hard to access panel.  After the agony of reworking my first CH801 panel doing an IFR upgrade, I vowed to never do it that way again for my second CH801. This PROBABLY will apply to 750 owners. 

I cut out my original panel leaving about a 1" flange on the top and sides.  The bottom I unriveted from the cross over formed aluminum brace that is supplied.  I Installed nutplates and a doubler on the side and perimeter flange to maintain rigidity.  Then I made my new panel out of sheet stock. I prewired all of it that could be prewired and used, high quality automotive style multi-pin pull out connectors to connect from the panel wiring to the airframe wiring for everything but the heavy battery master cable. I mounted the bottom of the new panel to the piece of formed aluminum that supports the bottom of the panel with piano hinges across the full length. (2 pieces with a 1" gap in the center for the bent ends of the hinge pins, so you can pull them out.)

You can remove the perimeter screws in a few minutes and tip the panel out several inches for easy access to all the multipin connecters, static lines, and antenna leads. If you want to remove the whole panel, just pop the connections, then pull the hinge pins and the whole panel comes right out.  This AC has dual sticks so I mounted my mechanical cable controls (throttle, mixture, carb heat, etc) in a center subpanel so that you don't have to unrig cables to pull the panel.

For the center stick version you could do the same by mounting them right beneath the panel on both sides. But I really like my dual sticks compared to the center Y stick. It was a bit of work to retrofit. It would be an easy mod while building. 

Myall glass IFR CH810 panel took about 400 hours to build in a nice well lit, comfortable garage on a wooden stand so I could work on it in any orientation and test > 90% of it before installing it . Compared to being on your back under a panel with sharp edges, either freezing or the sweat in your eyes trying to do it in the semi-dark, and you would never ever try to build a panel any other way. 

Just in case anyone is interested in an easier way. (BTW- It is aluminum with a vinyl wrap, not Carbon fiber)

Attachments:

• Panel back ready to lace.jpg, 5 MB
• Dsub HD pin on end.jpg, 3 MB

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Permalink Reply by James R Depfer Sr. on November 9, 2018 at 11:08am

Samuel,

I'm sure your post will give others some good ideas if they haven't completed their wiring yet. When I did my panel I should have researched it a little better. I wish I had seen the posts about sub-panel during my build. It would have been great for me. I thought a couple of times about a re-build of the panel, but too late now that I'm trying to sell my plane.

Jim

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