I know there has been a lot of discussion about burned wires and connectors on the UL unit, but some builders have had good luck as well. I see UL power has taken the same regulator and done away with the connector that plugs into the regulator and potted the wires instead. I have the earlier style with the connector and am considering doing away with the connector and potting the wires myself. My question is: does anyone have the newer (potted wire) regulator that could confirm what size wire they are using now? Also has anyone flying with this newer style wire connection had any issues?  Thanks

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UL Power's drawing shows a recommended minimum of 12awg, but I'd go to 10awg.  What do you hope to gain by potting the wires?  If the manufacture does it, then the physical connection can be done away with, which will improve the electrical properties (no heating of that connection under high loads), but if you do it, that physical connection will still exist only now it'll be buried in a potted connection - no advantage IMHO, since that connection will still heat up under high loads (if there is significant electrical resistance).

Thanks for the reply Jim. To answer your question, I was hoping to eliminate a slip connector by either soldering the wires directly to the male spades or slipping the female connector on, then solder to reduce possibility of loosening creating high resistance.  I attached  some info I recently saw on a UL owners group started in Belgium. The new regulator with potted wires looks identical to the early unit, just no connector. That is why I think maybe they slipped female spades on and potted, or made a soldered connection. Not much room to work down in there for soldering. I agree with you on having a slip connection that is buried is not ideal, that was my reason for wanting to solder. The Deusch connector they are talking about is for the 3 wire connection to the stator wires. I was just searching to see if anyone had more info on the newer regulator.

Attachments:

My concern with soldering - assuming you can get an iron down in there - would be melting the plastic that's holding the spade connectors.  The heat that will need to be applied to the spade connector to allow solder to flow properly will be considerable and I think it likely the plastic around that connection will begin to melt.  I don't see it's worth the risk.

In my opinion, I think a better option (assuming you want to stay with UL's regulator/rectifier - there are other options, e.g. mosfet regulator/rectifier) would be to use 10awg wire (mil spec) properly crimped on the spade connector and then some sort of physical clamp that would prevent the connector from backing out.  That could be as simple as cable ties (make sure the cable ties can take the heat - I wouldn't use plastic cable ties).  This way it could be disassembled easily if need be.

Jim , I apologize for the late response. You are correct on soldering the connectors. It is too difficult to access and I agree heat would be an issue. I think I will go the Mosfet route from Ray. 

Thanks for your input.

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