David A. Wiebe
  • Monmouth, OR
  • United States
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David A. Wiebe's Friends

  • John  Austin
  • Bruce Rose
  • Bill Alexander
  • Jim Derickson
  • Ken Sandine
  • James Cameron
  • Thomas Palmer

David A. Wiebe's Discussions

Sun and Fun

Started this discussion. Last reply by Chris Aysen Jan 31, 2011. 2 Replies

My wife and I will be attending Sun and Fun this year, for the first time, to check out engines, avionics, instruments, etc for our 750. We'll be there for the week, and don't want to miss anything,…Continue

Setting up shop

Started this discussion. Last reply by David Gallagher Mar 1, 2010. 1 Reply

I should receive my CH750 fuselage, and eppenage kits in mid March. In the meantime, I will be clearing out my 20'x20' woodshop and converting it into a mini-hangar, for my first attempt at building…Continue


David A. Wiebe's Page

Profile Information

Aircraft Model
Project Status
Just started
Building From
Building Experience
Have worked on airplanes before
Flying Experience
Private Pilot
Building and Flying Info / Your Profession / Other Background Info
Hazelnut Farmer/Construction Management Consultant.
Building the CH750 in my shop and will fly it out of our farm strip for business and recreational purposes.

Comment Wall (10 comments)

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At 6:54pm on November 2, 2011, Thomas Palmer said…


I will be happy to share all info I have on the IO-233.  I know it will be heavier, but with the eiditon 2 airframe, I am OK with that.  I just received my IO-233 last month. I have it mounted and the fuel pump (specified by Lycoming) installed.  You will need a fuel return which i plumed to the R wing as the L wing fuselage interface area is full of wires and pitot stuff.  I will post some pictures.  I have a lot of hours behind Lycoming and simply felt more confident in the engine.  BUT these things end up being personal choices.  Best of luck.   Tom

At 9:17pm on September 30, 2010, Jim Derickson said…
It's worth all the effort! The finish work is discouraging. It's kind of like building a house. You frame it and it looks like a house! Then the finish work takes forever! Keep up the good work, Jim
At 10:20am on April 9, 2010, Bruce Rose said…
David -

Thanks for the welcome to the group.
I have purchased a set of plans and will construct a plans-built slow build.
Next week I will be at Sun-n-Fun (my first time!) and will attend the Zenith forums.

At 6:15am on April 9, 2010, andrew L holbrook said…
Thanks, David. Great to be here on the cusp of building an aluminum flying contraption.
Will have the tail and wing kits by months end. My hangar is already smaller from the 4 x 12 torsion box table I just finished.

At 7:27pm on April 3, 2010, Ken Sandine said…
There are more credible opinions than mine, so “buyer beware.” On deburring, I bought a “rosebud deburring bit.” Could have done without it.

Brown Aviation Tool: http://www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&List=1&SortField=ProductName%2cProductNumber&txtSearch=debur

I have not used it as much as the flat side of the half-round file for long runs on the spars and edge holes on the skins. For tighter spaces I use a very small flat file that was in a kit of small files from Harbor Freight.

Before I debur I use Corrosion-X to lubricate the surface and minimize the marks on the skin from the file. There are deburring tools that have a curved point that goes into the holes, but I have no experience with them.

I coat all metal-to-metal parts before riveting and then before putting on the last skin, I coat the interior of all surfaces. The squirt bottles don’t atomize the product very well, so I spread it around with a paint sponge (with the wood handle). I don’t know if the pressure cans would atomize the fluid, but if they do, that would speed up the application. Two squirt bottles should be enough for the entire job.
Don’t be afraid to invent something new in the way of assembly. Also, look ahead before you rivet a part. Make sure that you don’t make another rivet inaccessible. None of that is in the “instructions” so expect to learn how to drill a rivet out. Not difficult.

Before you close the left wing, get a pitot and plumbing…that’s not on the plans. There are some options, depending on what you plan for instrumentation. For example, if you want more bells and whistles, like the Dynon 180, you can have angle-of-attack, which plumbs into a special pitot. It goes on and on.

It' fun, so have fun,

At 5:40pm on March 19, 2010, Andre Levesque said…
Enjoy building your 750.... and looking forward for pictures of your progress.
At 11:05pm on March 2, 2010, Ken Sandine said…
David, I built the 4X16 table out of plywood and used a scrap “I” joist sawed in half for the lengthwise support. Works great. I have a floor type drill press from a previous project that is very handy for some of the work, like drilling the fuel sender holes in the gas tanks. Hand drilling holes in tight quarters is always a challenge. Ideal would be a 90 degree that uses threaded bits. They are a little spendy. I went cheaper with an “about 90” from Lowes that uses bits with a ¼” hex end and is magnetic. The best bits I’ve found for that application came from Harbor Freight because they have steel hexes rather than the aluminum ones from Lowes. They have a better grind on the tip as well and are much cheaper.

Regarding corrosion protection: I’ve seen pictures of many builders using zinc chromate where there is metal-to-metal and some who coat all the inside surfaces. I’ve chosen to use CorrosionX (http://corrosionx.com/) but cannot verify it’s claims. I use it also on my Bonanza, which is a 1960 model. The FBO recommended it when they noted some signs of surface oxidation inside the wings, which were never treated at the factory. They apply it through inspection holes with pressure misting. With treatment it should be good for another 50 years!

You’ll see builders who are leading the pack on the website and that there are various ways to accomplish the job. My biggest challenge so far was bending the skins on the leading edge of the slats, without the assistance of another set of hands. There are pictures of my “solution” using ratchet straps, 1X2’s, and duct tape. Another set of hands would have made it much easier.

Best of luck, David. If you run into head scratchers, and you will, I’ll be glad to share my “solution” if you need to confer.
At 7:19pm on February 28, 2010, David A. Wiebe said…

Thanks for the email. I will receive the fuselage, eppanage, and control kits sometime in the middle of March. In the meantime, I need to clear out my 20'x20' woodshop, and store the power tools in the barn for awhile. I'm excited about starting the project, and will look forward to getting advice from you "old hands" in the building process.

I plan on constructing a 4'x16' level bench down the center of the shop for fabrication. I'm thinking 32 inches high for the bench top. When I get the fuselage and tail completed, I can store them in the barn while working on the slats/wings. Please give me your thoughts on the work bench arrangements.

I have a question regarding corrosion protection for the interior of the individual structures as they are fabricated. What are other builders doing in that regard?

Again, I thank you for welcoming me into the "CH750 Club". I will appreciate your advice and comments, as I move throught the build.
At 8:54am on February 27, 2010, Ken Sandine said…
Welcome, David. I'm building a 750 across the Cascades in Bend and intend to fly it from our 40 acres. I've completed the rudder, horizontal stab, elevator, slats, flaperons, and am just finishing the right wing. My experience so far prompts me to advise: study the plans, use the pictures book as "suggestion," and enjoy the build.
At 8:45am on February 26, 2010, Zenith.Aero said…
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