David,

I will be happy to share all info I have on the IO-233.  I know it will be heavier, but with the eiditon 2 airframe, I am OK with that.  I just received my IO-233 last month. I have it mounted and the fuel pump (specified by Lycoming) installed.  You will need a fuel return which i plumed to the R wing as the L wing fuselage interface area is full of wires and pitot stuff.  I will post some pictures.  I have a lot of hours behind Lycoming and simply felt more confident in the engine.  BUT these things end up being personal choices.  Best of luck.   Tom

It's worth all the effort! The finish work is discouraging. It's kind of like building a house. You frame it and it looks like a house! Then the finish work takes forever! Keep up the good work, Jim

David -

Thanks for the welcome to the group.
I have purchased a set of plans and will construct a plans-built slow build.
Next week I will be at Sun-n-Fun (my first time!) and will attend the Zenith forums.

Bruce

Thanks, David. Great to be here on the cusp of building an aluminum flying contraption.
Will have the tail and wing kits by months end. My hangar is already smaller from the 4 x 12 torsion box table I just finished.

ANdrew

David,
There are more credible opinions than mine, so “buyer beware.” On deburring, I bought a “rosebud deburring bit.” Could have done without it.

Brown Aviation Tool: http://www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&List=1&SortField=ProductName%2cProductNumber&txtSearch=debur

I have not used it as much as the flat side of the half-round file for long runs on the spars and edge holes on the skins. For tighter spaces I use a very small flat file that was in a kit of small files from Harbor Freight.

Before I debur I use Corrosion-X to lubricate the surface and minimize the marks on the skin from the file. There are deburring tools that have a curved point that goes into the holes, but I have no experience with them.

I coat all metal-to-metal parts before riveting and then before putting on the last skin, I coat the interior of all surfaces. The squirt bottles don’t atomize the product very well, so I spread it around with a paint sponge (with the wood handle). I don’t know if the pressure cans would atomize the fluid, but if they do, that would speed up the application. Two squirt bottles should be enough for the entire job.
Don’t be afraid to invent something new in the way of assembly. Also, look ahead before you rivet a part. Make sure that you don’t make another rivet inaccessible. None of that is in the “instructions” so expect to learn how to drill a rivet out. Not difficult.

Before you close the left wing, get a pitot and plumbing…that’s not on the plans. There are some options, depending on what you plan for instrumentation. For example, if you want more bells and whistles, like the Dynon 180, you can have angle-of-attack, which plumbs into a special pitot. It goes on and on.

It' fun, so have fun,

Ken

Enjoy building your 750.... and looking forward for pictures of your progress.
Andre

David, I built the 4X16 table out of plywood and used a scrap “I” joist sawed in half for the lengthwise support. Works great. I have a floor type drill press from a previous project that is very handy for some of the work, like drilling the fuel sender holes in the gas tanks. Hand drilling holes in tight quarters is always a challenge. Ideal would be a 90 degree that uses threaded bits. They are a little spendy. I went cheaper with an “about 90” from Lowes that uses bits with a ¼” hex end and is magnetic. The best bits I’ve found for that application came from Harbor Freight because they have steel hexes rather than the aluminum ones from Lowes. They have a better grind on the tip as well and are much cheaper.

Regarding corrosion protection: I’ve seen pictures of many builders using zinc chromate where there is metal-to-metal and some who coat all the inside surfaces. I’ve chosen to use CorrosionX (http://corrosionx.com/) but cannot verify it’s claims. I use it also on my Bonanza, which is a 1960 model. The FBO recommended it when they noted some signs of surface oxidation inside the wings, which were never treated at the factory. They apply it through inspection holes with pressure misting. With treatment it should be good for another 50 years!

You’ll see builders who are leading the pack on the website and that there are various ways to accomplish the job. My biggest challenge so far was bending the skins on the leading edge of the slats, without the assistance of another set of hands. There are pictures of my “solution” using ratchet straps, 1X2’s, and duct tape. Another set of hands would have made it much easier.

Best of luck, David. If you run into head scratchers, and you will, I’ll be glad to share my “solution” if you need to confer.

Welcome, David. I'm building a 750 across the Cascades in Bend and intend to fly it from our 40 acres. I've completed the rudder, horizontal stab, elevator, slats, flaperons, and am just finishing the right wing. My experience so far prompts me to advise: study the plans, use the pictures book as "suggestion," and enjoy the build.